Friday, 30 September 2022

In the city of Hildesheim in the Lower Saxony Land, Germany

 "What one approves, another scorns, And thus his nature each discloses: You find the rosebush full of thorns; I find the thornbush full of roses." — Arthur Guiterman

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(in north-central Germany) The city of Hildesheim in the Lower Saxony Land (state), lies southeast of Hannover on the Innerste River (a tributary of the Leine River) in the foothills of the Harz Mountains. One of the oldest cities in Northern Germany, it was originaly a fort on the trade route between Cologne and Magdeburg. The Holy Roman Emperor Louis the Pious founded the Bishopric of Hildesheim in 815, an event linked with the “thousand-year-old rosebush” (probably more like 300-to-500 years old) that blooms above the east choir of the Hildesheim Cathedral. He also created the first settlement here with a chapel on the so-called Domhügel. The settlement around the cathedral very quickly developed into a town and was granted market rights by King Otto III in 983. Originally the market was held in a street called Alter Markt (Old Market) which still exists today. The first marketplace was laid out around the church St. Andreas. When the city grew further, a larger market place became necessary. (The current marketplace of Hildesheim was laid out at the beginning of the 13th century.) Such great prelates as Bishops Bernward and Gotthard fostered Hildesheim’s development as a cultural center in the 11th century. It became a member of the Hanseatic League and was chartered in 1300. Its bishops were princes of the Holy Roman Empire until 1803. (Hildesheim passed to Prussia in 1803 and then to Hanover in 1815.)

+ Much of this city was damaged or destroyed by bombing during World War II, though some buildings have been restored. Most notable are the Cathedral, with magnificent art treasures from the 11th century, and St. Michael’s Church, with a painted ceiling from the 12th century; both were designated UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1985. Other landmarks include St. Gotthard’s Church, the old Gothic City Hall, and the late 15th-century Tempelhaus. (The Roemer-Pelizaeus Museum has notable Egyptian and Greco-Roman collections.)

+ The spire of St. Andrew’s Church in Hildesheim is the highest church steeple in Lower Saxony (and is recognized as one of the highest steeples in the world). In addition to its numerous churches, Hildesheim is home to a large number of well-preserved half-timbered houses. Most of them can be found in the Neustadtdistrict, but there are some in Moritzberg as well. It is definitely worth visiting the old Waffenschmiedehaus (armory) built in 1548 (at Gelber Stern 21) and the Wernersche House (from 1606) on Godehardsplatz across from St. Godehard Basilica. You will immediately recognize them by their brightly colored carvings on the façades. (The half-timbered houses on the marketplace, however, are only replicas.)
+ Hildesheim is situated on Autobahn Route 7, at the connection point of the North (Hamburg and beyond) with the South of Europe.



In the town of Kotar, on the Adriatic coast of Montenegro

 “I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” – Robert Louis Stevenson

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(at the south end of Kotor Bay on the Adriatic coast of Montenegro) The Gulf of Kotor, a winding, fjordlike inlet of the Adriatic Sea, makes for a fine natural harbor that comprises the four bays of the Gulf of Kotor, which are linked by narrow straits. The stark mountains around the bay slope steeply to a narrow shoreline, on which citrus fruits and subtropical plants grow and tourist facilities have been developed.

+ The walled seaport (and resort) town of Kotor, situated about 30 miles (~50 km) south of Nikšić, lies at the foot of the sheer Lovćen massif, which rises to 1749 meters. It was founded by the ancient Romans as Acruvium. In the 10th century it became an autonomous city ruled from Byzantium, and from 1186-to-1371 it was a free city of medieval Serbia. It was Venetian and Hungarian for brief periods, an independent republic from 1395-to-1420, and Venetian again until 1797. (The town suffered periodic damage from Turkish assaults and from earthquakes.) Between 1807 and 1814 it was occupied by France. That French period was followed by Austrian domination until 1918, when Slav sailors in the Austro-Hungarian navy mutinied at Kotor and the town was incorporated into the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (later known as Yugoslavia, until 2003).

+ Much of Kotor’s medieval fortifications remains in place. The town’s walls extend for about three miles (~4.5 km), range in thickness from about two to 15 meters, and reach a maximum height of about 20 meters). Its main gate dates from the 16th century; the south gate, Kotor’s oldest, was partially built in the 9th century. Kotor has many historic buildings, the largest and most beautiful of which is St. Tryphon Cathedral, which was built in 1166 and contains many frescoes and a treasury of jewels. Also notable are the 12th-century church of St. Luke (which was originally Roman Catholic but has been an Orthodox church since the 17th century), the 13th-century church of St. Mary (which contains medieval frescoes and the remains of a basilica), and several palaces of prominent families (including the 18th-century Grgurina Palace, which is now a maritime museum). The oldest town in Montenegro, Kotor was seriously damaged in a 1979 earthquake, but has been greatly restored.

+ A city steeped in tradition and history, with remarkable scenic views, Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city walls, snaking improbably up the surrounding slopes that have protected Kotor for centuries, lead to the fortress of Saint Ivan. The city is a dramatic and delightful place, where the past coexists with the present; its cobblestones ring with the sound of children racing to school in centuries-old buildings, and hundreds of cats (descendants of seafaring felines) loll in its marble lanes. Come nightfall, Kotor’s lit-up walls glow as serenely as a halo.



At the “Almabetrieb” - the annual Alpine cattle drive, in Allgäu, a region in Swabia, southern Germany

 "The river route is certainly preferable, as it affords good grazing and an abundance of water." -- William Whipple

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(In southern Germany) The Allgäu, a region in Swabia, covers the south of Bavarian Swabia, southeastern Baden-Württemberg and parts of Austria. The region stretches from the prealpine lands up to the Alps. The main rivers flowing through the Allgäu are the Lech and Iller. The alpine regions of the Allgäu rise over 2,000 meters in altitude and are popular for winter skiing. The Allgovian area is notable for its beautiful landscapes and is popular for vacations and therapeutic stays. It is well known in Germany for its farm produce, especially dairy products, including Hirtenkäse ("herdsman's cheese") and Bergkäse ("mountain cheese"). Besides tourism and dairy products, another important economic sector is the building of industrial equipment and machines. (The castle of Neuschwanstein in Hohenschwangau is in the eastern part of the Allgäu.) Dominated in the south by the Allgäu Alps, the Allgäu is formed mainly by glaciers and glacial debris. Many hills and lakes are remnants of former glaciers.

+ The “Almabtrieb” or “Viehscheid” is the annual Alpine cattle drive that takes place in the high altitudes of the Bavarian mountains. A traditional spectacle, the colorful Almabtrieb (cattle drive) is a special event for young and old -- and attracts thousands of visitors each year. “Almabtrieb” and “Viehscheid” are basically the same thing -- an Alpine cattle drive. In the Allgäu region of Bavaria, it is referred to as “Viehscheid” or cattle separation. Near Berchtesgaden as well as in Austria and Switzerland, it’s more commonly known as “Almabtrieb.” Dating back to the Bronze Age, this time-honored tradition is engrained in German culture. Each Spring, farmers and ranchers lead their branded cattle up to the higher pastures in the Alps. During the Summer, the cows munch and graze their way around these green meadows. Not only does this help feed the cattle, but also helps reduce mountain erosion. As the leaves begin to change and Fall arrives toward the end of September, it is time to bring the cattle back down the mountains. Farmers dressed in traditional Bavarian garb (lederhosen, dirndls and fedoras) lead their herd back to town. To celebrate, the cattle are often adorned with stunning floral headdresses, wreaths, and gigantic metal bells that clang incessantly as they make their way home. Once the cows make it to the final destination, the party startes . Festivals with local fare, plenty of frosty beverages, and traditional music are held. It’s quite similar to Oktoberfest, only a bit rowdier.

+ Most popular in the Tyrol, Allgä,u and Berchtesgaden regions, each “Almabtrieb” carries its own distinct flare. In Schönau, for example, the cows are herded onto a boat, which takes them across the crystal-clear waters of Königsee. (In some areas, other animals such as goats or sheep may join in the long trek home.)



In the port city of Aalborg, in northern Jutland, Denmark

 "There is a rumour that I can't draw and never could. This is probably because I work so much with models. Models are one of the most beautiful design tools, but I still do the finest drawings you can imagine." -- Jørn Utzon

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(in Northern Jutland, Denmark) The port city of Aalborg on the south side of Limfjord, has existed since about 1000 CE -- and is one of the oldest cities in Denmark. Chartered in 1342, it became a bishop’s see in 1554. The town recovered slowly from the Count’s War (a religious civil war from 1533-to-1536) to become a major commercial center in the 17th century and was Denmark’s second largest city until about 1850. It is the site of the Danish surrender (in 1629) to Albrecht von Wallenstein (the Roman Catholic commander) during the Thirty Years’ War.

+ Denmark’s fourth-largest city, Aalborg sits at the narrowest point of the Limfjord (the lengthy body of water that divides Jutland into two parts); its relatively recent developments have caused the waterfront to become the city's focal point. A concerted effort is being made to rejuvenate the central industrial areas, and transformt neglected spaces into more appealing places.

+ The 1,000-year-old city boasts a Viking past, more than 300 restaurants, a casino, lively nightlife, and great shopping opportunities. The zoo breeds rare Siberian Tigers, and the Waterland and Tivoliland make it a great place for families to visit. Aalborg also has shipbuilding facilities, and its manufactures include cement, chemicals, textiles, and spirits, notably Akvavit (the famous national drink of Denmark.) Ålborghallen is a busy exhibition and concert complex. Aalborg University opened in 1974. (A bridge and road tunnel link the city with Nørresundby to the north.)

+ Medieval landmarks in Aalborg include the 15th-century Holy Ghost Monastery, the cathedral of St. Budolf, and 16th-century Ålborghus Castle. An art and historical museum houses relics from the Viking cemetery at nearby Lindholm Hills. Rebild Hills National Park, just 19 miles (~31 km) to the south (which was a gift from Americans of Danish descent), is the site of the Emigration Museum.

+ To summarize, Aalborg, the capital of North Jutland, is in a league of its own, offering something for nearly everyone: museums, cultural monuments, historic buildings, world-class architecture, a zoo, and art and gastronomy in abundance. In addition, it offers great shopping, attractiver (cobbled) streets, the relaxing Fjordpark and an inviting, bustling waterfront (shown here).

+ Aalborg's new waterfront, which has been converted into a cultural quarter, featuring new university buildings, student housing, and a striking concrete music hall. The first phase of the project (begun in 2004 and completed in 2013) is a stretch of a tree-lined, detailed boulevard for cyclists and pedestrians. The second phase follows the same basic approach, with the promenade as a unifying element, linking the city’s medieval center with the fjord.




In the city of Dinant, in Belgium’s Walloon Region

 “Its principal merit in my view is the varied beauty of its accent, sometimes serious, sometimes calm, sometimes impassioned, dreamy or melancholic, or vague, like the weakened echo of an echo, like the indistinct plaintiff moans of the breeze in the woods and, even better, like the mysterious vibrations of a bell, long after it has been struck; there does not exist another musical instrument that I know of that possesses this strange resonance, which is situated at the edge of silence.”

-- Hector Berlioz (the French composer's assessment of Adolphe Sax's "brass horn" [Berlioz was the first to call it a Saxophone])
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(in Dinant, Belgium, the "birthplace" of the Saxophone) Dinant is a city in (primarily French-speaking) Wallonia, one of the three regions of Belgium (along with Flanders and Brussels). Located in the province of Namur, in the Ardennes (a region of forests, rough terrain, rolling hills, and ridges), Dinant lies 90 km (~56 mi.) southeast of Brussels, 30 km (~19 mi.) southeast of Charleroi, and 30 km south of the city of Namur. (Dinant is 20 km (~12 mi.) north of the border with France.)

+ One of the most attractive places in Wallonia, Dinant is found along the banks of the Meuse River, with the Dianant citadel looming over the city. The story of Dinant goes back to the 10th century. Most famous for its citadel, Adolphe Sax (the inventor of the saxophone), and Leffe beer (which was first brewed in Dinant), the city is quaint and charming.

+ This city in the Upper Meuse valley, at a point where the river cuts deeply into the western Condroz plateau, is quite an attractive spot. Squeezed between the river and the high valley walls, it is sited in a steep sided valley, between the rock face and the river. The original settlement had little space in which to grow away from the river, and so, it expanded into quite a long, narrow town, on a north-south axis, along the river shore.

+ Dinant has been enriched by the agricultural opportunities presented by the fertile land on the plateau that overlooks it. Within the town, brassware production is a traditional craft that has benefited from the presence of the broad and, at this point, easily navigable river, which has facilitated delivery of the raw materials and ready distribution of the resulting products of the artisans' workshops.

+ To the east is a great wall of limestone that has long made Dinant a compelling place for armies to gain a foothold on the river. The cliff is still topped by a (newer) citadel, above the distinctive 16th-centuy onion dome of the Collegiate Church. On the riverside is Boulevard Léon Sasserath and its string of restaurant and cafe terraces. Vistitors to Dinant soon learn that this is a city with real "sax appeal," as the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, the inventor of the saxophone. There are saxophone monuments all over town in his honor (including along the bridge on which Charles de Gaulle took a bullet in the leg in 1914.)



In the city of Nancy, northeastern France

 "The wine they drink in Paradise

They make in Haute Lorraine."
-- Gilbert K. Chesterton
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(in northeastern France) The city of Nancy is the prefecture (district) of the department of Meurthe-et-Moselle. It was the capital of the Duchy of Lorraine (west of Strasbourg, near the left bank of the Meurthe River), which was annexed by France under King Louis XV in 1766 and replaced by a province with Nancy maintained as its capital. Following its rise to prominence in the Age of Enlightenment, Nancy was nicknamed the "capital of Eastern France" in the late 19th century. The motto of the city is Non inultus premor, Latin for "I am not injured unavenged" (a reference to the thistle, which is a symbol of Lorraine).
+ Shown here is Place Stanislas, a square built in the mid 1750s to link the Old Town of Nancy and the New Town built under Charles III, Duke of Lorraine in the 17th century, whish is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the first square in France to be given this distinction). The city is one of Europe's centers of Art Nouveau, thanks to the École de Nancy (the Nancy School). It is also a large university city; with the Centre Hospitalier Régional Universitaire de Brabois, the metro-area is home to one of the main health centrers in Europe, renowned for its innovations in surgical robotics.

+ Until the 18th century Nancy was composed of two distinct fortified towns. To the north stood the medieval town, the Ville-Vieille (Old Town), and to the south the Ville-Neuve (New Town), founded in the late 16th century. In 1750 Stanisław I (Stanisław Leszczyński), king of Poland and father-in-law of Louis XV, pulled down the walls that separated the two towns and commissioned the French architect Emmanuel Héré de Corny to design a new, well-planned town center. (At Stanisław’s death in 1766, the town passed to France.}

+ The town was further enlarged after the Franco-German War of 1870–71 and during the 20th century. After the Franco-German War of 1870–71, the population increased considerably, as Nancy became the main refuge for French-speaking emigrants from Alsace and Metz, which had come under German rule. (Nancy suffered damage in World War I but was almost unharmed during World War II.)

+ Delightful Nancy has an air of refinement found nowhere else in Lorraine. With a resplendent central square, fine museums, formal gardens, and shop windows sparkling with Daum and Baccarat crystal, the former capital of the dukes of Lorraine catapults you back to the riches of the 18th century, when much of the city center was built. Nancy has long thrived on a combination of innovation and sophistication. The art-nouveau movement flourished here, thanks to the rebellious spirit of local artists, who set out to prove that everyday objects could be gorgeous. An air of grandeur still resides in this city, and there are architectural marvels around every corner, from its UNESCO-listed 18th-century squares to baroque palaces and elegant art nouveau villas.



In the city of Friedrichshafen, in the state of Baden-Württemberg, southwestern Germany

 "The forces of nature cannot be eliminated but they may be balanced one against the other."

 — Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin
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(in southwestern Germany) The city of Friedrichshafen, in the state of Baden-Württemberg, lies on the north shore of Lake Constance (Bodensee), about 50 miles (80 km) northeast of Zürich, Switzerland. It was formed in 1811 by Frederick I of Württemberg as a result of the unification of the former free imperial city of Buchhorn and the monastery and village of Hofen. A Benedictine convent since 1050, Hofen became a provostship of monks in 1420; it was suppressed in 1802, and passed to Württemberg in 1805. Buchhorn was assigned to Württemberg in 1810. Before World War II, in which the city was heavily damaged, Zeppelin airships were built here, and it now has a Zeppelin museum.

+ Near the borders of both Switzerland and Austria. Friedrichshafen is the capital of the Bodensee district in Germany's federal state of Baden-Württemberg. Now a lake resort with an active convention center and an annual fair, Friedrichshafen has ferry connections to Switzerland. Its industries include electronics and communications. The city produces machinery, motors, gears, turbines, and bicycles. (Friedrichshafen also has research institutes and a trade school.)

+ Friedrichshafen is located on a gently curved bay on the north shore of Lake Constance and on the southwest edge of the Schussen (a tributary of the Bodensee, which drains to the Rhine River, in the southern portion of Upper Swabia in Baden-Württemberg). The city sits at an altitude of about 395 meters above sea level on the shores of Lake Constance (and some 500 meters in its Ailingen quarter.) The city's center is located just to the west of the confluence of the Rotach River and Lake Constance. Coming from the town of Oberteuringen, the Rotach reaches Friedrichshafen west of the village of Ailingen and flows through some smaller districts before spilling into the lake. (The somewhat larger Schussen touches the northeast corner of the urban area.)

+ Airship construction in the first third of the 20th century attracted considerable industry and contributed significantly to this city's relative prosperity. Friedrichshafen is best known for having been home to the Luftschiffbau Zeppelin Airship Company, the aircraft manufacturer Dornier Flugzeugwerke, ZF Friedrichshafen, a manufacturer of transmission systems, and MTU Friedrichshafen GmbH, the engine manufacturing company founded by Wilhelm Maybach.

+ Friedrichshafen is also great for outdoor-loving families. Swim, bike, hike, or explore some of the museums here while visiting the beautiful city. Autumn is a great time for strolling along the historically themed trails in this area. Many visitors enjoy visiting The Zeppelin Museum Friedrichshafen, which houses the world's largest aviation collection. (It also chronicles the history of the Zeppelin airships and combines technology and art.)



In the city of Bath, southwestern England

 "It isn't what we say or think that defines us, but what we do."

-- Jane Austen
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(in southwestern England) The city of Bath, in the historic county of Somerset, lies astride the River Avon in a natural arena of steep hills. Built of local limestone, it is one of the most architecturally distinguished of British cities. Its 16th-century abbey church of St. Peter and St. Paul is late Perpendicular Gothic, and is noted for its windows, but it is the wealth of classical Georgian buildings mounting the steep valley sides that gives Bath its distinction. The hot mineral springs on the site attracted the Romans, who founded Bath as Aquae Sulis, dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva. The Saxons built an abbey on the site where in 973 CE Edgar was crowned the first king of all England.

+ Medieval Bath, incorporated by charter in 1189, shared in the west-of-England wool trade and later in the cloth trade, but the baths, although still used by royalty, were poorly maintained. When portions of the Roman baths were rediscovered in 1755, Bath had already revived as a spa. In its heyday as a fashionable resort, the Elizabethan town was rebuilt and extended in Palladian style by the architects John Wood the Elder and Younger and their patron, Ralph Allen, who provided the stone from his local quarries and built the mansion of Prior Park (1735–48) overlooking the city. From 1769–to-'74 Robert Adam built Pulteney Bridge to connect Bath with the new suburb of Bathwick across the River Avon.

+ Bath's extraordinary array of architectural treasures has earned the whole city UNESCO World Heritage Site status. It is easy to see why Bath has one of the world's best-preserved Roman bathhouses, sited here because of hot springs that bubble up at a toasty 46°C (115°F) degrees. In the Circus and Royal Crescent, the city has some of Britain's grandest Georgian buildings. Their construction turned Bath into THE destination for 18th century society. That sophisticated spa town tradition continues at Thermae Bath Spa, a luxurious building that offers great views of the city from its alfresco roof-top pool. A stroll through Bath is like visiting an open-air museum, with roughly 5,000 buildings in the city drawing notice for their architectural merit. (After your stroll, soak in the natural hot waters of the Thermae Bath Spa, which was once a favorite of the Celts and Romans.)

+ This city's history is not just about the architecture. For many Bath is synonymous with the English writer Jane Austen. The author of Pride and Prejudice and Persuasion lived here in the early 1800s and used the city as a setting for two of her novels. (An introduction is the Jane Austen Center, where guides in period costume and a Regency tearoom help bring her era to life.) Other heritage attractions include No 1 Royal Crescent, which provides an insight into the furnishings behind the sweeping semi-circular facade, and the extensive folk art collections of the American Museum in Britain.



In the city of Leuven, in the Flanders region of Belgium

 “Humankind was built on beer. From the world’s first writing to its first laws, in rituals social, religious, and political, civilization is soaked in beer.”

-– William Bostwick
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(in the Flanders region of Belgium) The city of Leuven is located along the Dyle River and is connected by canal with the Scheldt. The city is about 16 miles (~26 km) east of Brussels. Founded in the 9th century around a fortress built by a German emperor against the Normans, it became important in the 11th century as the residence of the counts of Leuven, and the dukes of Brabant.

+ A cloth-weaving center, Leuven was and one of the largest cities in Europe in the 14th century, when a feud began between its citizenry and nobility. In 1379, 17 nobles were massacred in the Town Hall, bringing down the vengeance of the duke, to whom the citizens surrendered in 1383. The city then declined as many weavers fled to Flanders and England, as Brussels replaced Leuven as the capital of Brabant. What it lost in trade, Leuven partly recovered as a seat of learning, for in 1425 the Catholic University of Leuven, the first university in the Netherlands, was founded and became known for its Roman Catholic teaching.

+ Today, Leuven is still a major cultural center and an agricultural market. Its industries have included food processing, brewing, and the manufacture of leather goods, machinery, and chemicals. Beginning in the late 20th century, Leuven increasingly served as a suburban "bedroom community"  for professionals working in Brussels.

+ The city's Town Hall is one of the richest examples of pointed Gothic architecture, and was built by the masater mason, Mathieu de Layens, in the mid 15th century. The Church of St. Peter, which dates from the early 11th century, was twice destroyed before being rebuilt as a Gothic structure (from 1425–97), and it was again damaged in both world wars. Other notable medieval buildings include the Round Table (former meeting place of the merchant guilds), churches of St. Gertrude, St. Quentin, Saint-Michel, and St. James, two monasteries, and a béguinage (retreat for secular nuns) with a church of 1305; the béguinage has been the property of Leuven’s Catholic University since 1962.

+ Lively Leuven, an ancient capital, is now a prominent brewing center and Flanders’ oldest university town -- offering a range of adventures for overnight visitors or day-trippers from Bruges and Brussels. Tourists will find everything from gastronomic tours to architectural gems. The Kruidtuin Botanical Garden’s herbal gardens are the oldest in Belgium, and Heverleebos, a “city wood,” offers a respite for urban dwellers. The exploring is easy in Leuven, on foot or on one of the ubiquitous bikes.

+ Leuven has many great abbeys including the Keizersberg Abbey, which was built by Mardsous monks; its surrounding wall, make it look more like a fortress. Yet, the gardens here, which are now a public park, enable panoramic views of the city.



At the Schloss Neuschwanstein (Neuschwanstein Castle), in southeastern Germany

 There are no rules of architecture for a castle in the clouds. --Gilbert K. Chesterton ====================================================...