Saturday 15 July 2023

At the Château de Chambord in Chambord, Centre-Val de Loire, France

 Floating slowly, and silently, down the Loire River, spanning 280 km, (170 mi.) is quite a luxury all its own.

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(in central France) The Loire Valley is a region known for its attractive landscapes and historic châteaux. The Loire River, the longest river in France, rises in the southern Massif Central and flows north and west to the Atlantic Ocean. (The valley is sometimes called the Garden of France.)

+ Visiting the Loire Valley will likely exceed your expectations (no matter how great they may have been before arriving here). Poised on the crucial frontier between northern and southern France, and just a short train (or automobile) ride from Paris, the region has long been of immense strategic importance. Kings, queens, dukes, and nobles came here to establish feudal castles and, later on, sumptuous pleasure palaces -- which explains why this fertile river valley is dotted with hundreds of France's most opulent aristocratic estates. With crenellated towers, soaring cupolas, and glittering banquet halls, the region's châteaux (and the villages and vineyards that surround them), attest to more than a thousand years of architectural and artistic creativity. The Loire Valley is also known for its outstanding wines (red, white, rosé, and sparkling) and lively, sophisticated cities, such as Orléans, Blois, Tours, and Angers -- even greater reasons why the entire area has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

+ Like many contemporary regions of France, the region of Centre-Val de Loire was created from parts of historical provinces: Touraine, Orléanais, and Berry. On 17 January 2015, as part of the reorganization of French regions, this one's official name was changed to Centre-Val de Loire. The Val de Loire is associated with positive images of the Loire Valley, such as the châteaux, the gentle and refined lifestyle, wine, as well as the mild and temperate climate, all of which attract lots of tourists to this region.

+ For centuries, the Loire Valley was a strategic frontier and a playground for royalty and nobility, who built hundreds of lavish châteaux along the river banks. With its 2,500 listed monuments, the valley attracts nine million visitors annually, due to its wealth of unspoiled landscapes (many of the most visited châteaux in France (like Chambord and Chenonceaux), its wine heritage (as the third largest wine-growing region in France), and its many recreational and nature destinations (like Beauval Zoo, Center Parcs holiday village, and the Loire à Vélo cycle route).

+ The Loire Valley is also widely considered a living laboratory: Leonardo da Vinci designed his weirdest inventions here, and kings made it the crucible of the French Renaissance. Clinging to the riverbanks, the Chateau de Chambord (shown here) and its neighbors convey the fabulous story of this artistic effervescence -- also expressed by gardens such as those at Chaumont-sur-Loire, which is both a chateau and the landscape laboratory of the future.



In the village of Primošten, in Šibenik-Knin County, Croatia

 "At night, when the sky is full of stars and the sea is still, you get the wonderful sensation that you are floating in space.” – Natalie Wood

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(on the Adriatic coast in the south of Croatia) The village of Primošten, in Šibenik-Knin County, had long been situated on an islet near the mainland.

+ Once an island, Primošten was first settled because of its defensive characteristics that had protected early inhabitants from the invading Turks. Primošten was then connected to the mainland with a drawbridge. Today, the peninsula has been reclaimed via a man-made isthmus. But beyond the striking beauty and storied history, the appeal of Primošten runs deeper than the charming village. When the Turks retreated, the draw bridge was replaced by a causeway, and in 1564 the settlement was named Primošten after the Croatian verb primostiti (to bridge). During the Turkish invasions of 1542 the islet was protected by the walls and towers -- but a draw bridge was built to connect it to the mainland.

+ Built on a hill, the village is dominated by the parish church of St. George, which was constructed t in 1485 (and restored in 1760) near the local graveyard -- from which a great view of place spreads to the sea and other surroundings.
+ Primošten is famous for its huge and beautiful vineyards. Apart from its vineyards, Primošten is also known for the traditional donkey race that takes place here every summer. Every year during the summer season a manifestation called "Primoštenske užance" is held near the main part of town. The manifestation exhibits traditional Mediterranean culture including food, folk costume, music, and other products. (The event should not be missed by anyone curious about the original culture of this place.)

+ The attractive village of Primošten makes for a great jumping-off point to explore this remarkable region. The largest beach in Primošten is called Raduča, and its smaller part, Mala Raduča, is considered to be one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in Croatia. Stretching further away from the town are more of the the famed Primošten beaches, known for their gorgeous turquoise waters, kilometers of white pebble beaches, and rocky coves.

+ Primošten has well-preserved its original Mediterranean culture. Indeed, its originality is one of its most important tourist magnets. Should you come here outside the peak tourist season, you will notice that locals are still investing lots of effort in traditional agriculture, which results in high-quality products. Especially featured delicacies are wine and olive oil. The red wine from Primosten called Babic is one of the most famous in the world. (It was served on the inauguration of American president Biden.)

+ Primošten is not just traditional in its food and events; the originality of this place can be felt in every other way. You can feel it while talking to locals and observing their emotions toward thei hometown, and by the relaxed way of life that small places like this can provide.



In the Lake District, a region and national park in Cumbria in northwest England

 "Poetry is the spontaneous overflow of powerful feelings; it takes its origin from emotion recollected in tranquility." -- William Wordsworth

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(in northwestern England) Dramatic mountains, moody weather, and ancient lakes have all helped to make the popular Lake District an inspiration for artists, dreamers, and wanderers. Wordsworth and Coleridge’s poetry helped turn this stunning corner of England into a tourist’s haven, while the hand-drawn guide books and maps of rambler Alfred Wainwright* have made it a must-do for hikers, bikers, and those looking to escape the bustle of English cities. A hauntingly beautiful part of northwest England, the Lake District was voted the UK's favorite national park in 2018. The region not only seduced Wordsworth and other literary giants, it continues to attract lots of sightseers, hikers, and adventurers in search of its fascinating heritage and abundant outdoor activities.

+ The Lake District is both a famous scenic region and national park. The lake-strewn valleys of the region contribute to the distinctive character that makes the entire Lake District attractive to so many visitors. The geologic structure of the region is basically a dome, with hard rocks forming most of the principal summits, including the highest, Scafell Pike, (at 978 meters). To the north are more rounded hills. In the south, lower hills surround several lakes, including Windermere -- England’s largest body of water. The Lake District has been influenced by glacial action, which not only deepened existing valleys but also truncated former tributary valleys to create a number of “hanging valleys” with attractive waterfalls.

+ The Lake District was the home of poet William Wordsworth, who was born at Cockermouth and is buried in Grasmere churchyard (beside his sister and his wife).

+ The national park covers an area of 866 square miles (2,243 square km). The famous lake-strewn valleys of the region radiate from a core of central mountains, thus making through-routes difficult to establish but also contributing to the distinctive character that makes the entire Lake District attractive to tourists.

+ The Lake District (or Lakeland, as it's commonly known round these parts) is by far the UK's most popular national park. Ever since the Romantic poets arrived in the 19th century, its attractive panorama of craggy hilltops, mountain tarns, and glittering lakes has been stirring the imaginations of visitors. Since 2017 it has also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in recognition of its unique hill-farming culture. From lake cruises to mountain walks, many people visit for the region's literary connections. In addition to Woodsworth, the many writers who found inspiration here included Samuel Taylor Coleridge, Arthur Ransome, and, of course, Beatrix Potter (a lifelong lover of the Lakes).
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*Alfred Wainwright's Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells has become the standard reference work to 214 of the fells in the English Lake District.



In the village of Vernazza in Cinque Terre National Park, Italy

 "...There's a long, long trail a-winding

Into the land of my dreams,
Where the nightingales are singing
And the white moon beams.
There's a long, long night of waiting
Until my dreams all come true...."
-- (lyrics from a popular World War I song)
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(in Italy) The Italian Riviera features dozens of towns and villages but none are as famous as Cinque Terre (literally meaning "Five Lands"), which is made up of five UNESCO protected fishing villages within Cinque Terre National Park. Each one is nestled into the rugged hillside, and bordered on the west by the Mediterranean Sea. Set amid some of the most dramatic coastal scenery on the planet, Cinque Terre's five fishing villages can bolster the most jaded of spirits. Sinuous paths traverse seemingly impregnable cliff sides, while a 19th-century railway line conveys people from one village to another.

+ Rooted in antiquity, Cinque Terre's villages date from the early medieval period. While much of this fetching vernacular architecture remains, Cinque Terre's unique historical draw is the steeply terraced cliffs, bisected by a complicated system of fields and gardens that have been hacked, chiselled, shaped, and layered over the course of nearly two millennia.

+ The Cinque Terre lie in the west of La Spezia Province, and comprise five villages: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The coastline, the villages, and the surrounding hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over the centuries, people have built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the Ligurian Sea.

+ The Italian Riviera is not short of rugged coastline or romantic towns and villages, but the fishing communities of the Cinque Terre are its most iconic highlight. Tucked away in a particularly mountainous kink at the eastern end of the Riviera, the villages were shaped by their profound isolation. Though the villages are no longer the isolated hamlets they once were, there is still a feeling of authenticity here, with well preserved architecture and a network of stunning coastal and mountain trails.

+ Depicted here, is the village of Vernazza in Cinque Terre National Park: Even in Italy, a land of many wonders, Cinque Terre National Park is unique.

+ History is alive in the park's villages, which are replete with ancient churches, castles, and homes that line narrow streets and squares. Trains arrive from La Spezia, which is serviced by all long-distance routes on the Pisa-Genoa line. Ferries embark from La Spezia, Lerici, and Porto Venere; connecting boats serve each of the five villages with the exception of Corniglia.



In the city of Aachen, westernmost city of Germany

 Charlemagne (Charles the Great) is often described as the “Father of Europe” (Pater Europae), as he united most of Western Europe for the first time since the classical era of the Roman Empire, as well as uniting parts of Europe that had never been under Frankish or Roman rule.

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(in the westernmost city of Germany) Aachen has been around for millennia. The Romans nursed their war wounds and stiff joints in the steaming waters of its mineral springs, but it was Charlemagne who put the city firmly on the European map; he made Aachen the geographical and political capital of his vast Frankish Empire in 974 (arguably the first empire with European dimensions). Best known as the capital of Charlemagne's Frankish empire, today's Aachen sits at the juncture where Germany meets the Netherlands (the Dutch know it as Aken) and Belgium (where "Walloons" call it Aix-la-Chapelle). Yet Aachen's history goes back even further than 8th-century Charlemagne. Roman soldiers dating back to the 1st century CE cherished its hot springs. Originally a Roman spa called Aquisgranum, the city of Aachen rose to prominence in the late 8th century during the rule of Charlemagne, becoming his favorite residence and a center of Western culture and learning. The city was fortified in the late 12th century and granted municipal rights in 1166 and 1215, and it became a free imperial city about 1250.

+ Aachen did develop from the Roman settlement and thermae (bath complex), subsequently becoming the preferred medieval Imperial residence of Emperor Charlemagne of the Frankish Empire, and, from 936 to 1531, the place where 31 Holy Roman Emperors were crowned Kings of the Germans. (In the 1560s the coronation site was changed to Frankfurt am Main.)

+ Over the centuries, Charlemagne has been enlisted as a figurehead of rival nations and ideologies. In the modern era he has become a symbol of peaceful European unity. It suited the founders of Europe’s post-war institutions to showcase Aachen, a city close to the intersection of Germany, France, and the Benelux lands.

+ Objectively as well as symbolically, Charlemagne was a pivotal figure in his continent’s history. At his death in 814, he controlled what today are France, Germany, the Low Countries and northern Italy; he had overrun central Europe as far east as Hungary. Using Christianity, Latin, and literacy as instruments of soft power, he began turning these lands into a single cultural and commercial realm. On Christmas Day in the year 800, he was crowned as emperor (a sovereign of many peoples (not just one) by the pope. The ceremony in Rome was a spectacular challenge to the worldly and spiritual masters of Constantinople, until then the strongest claimants to the mantle of ancient Rome, and to the leadership of Christendom. Charlemagne’s legacy lives on in the stunning Dom, which in 1978 became Germany’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as in the new Centre Charlemagne and the Route Charlemagne walking trail.



Thursday 6 July 2023

In the city of York, in North Yorkshire, northern England

 James Herriot lived and worked in North Yorkshire, England, for more than 50 years, first and foremost as a veterinarian, but in his later years as one of the world's most successful authors.

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(in northern England) The city of York, in North Yorkshire, lies at the confluence of the Rivers Ouse and Foss. A cathedral city, about midway between London and Edinburgh, it is the historic county town of Yorkshire. The city has many old buildings and other structures, such as a minster, castle, and city walls. It is the largest settlement and the administrative center of the wider City of York district.

+ No other city in northern England says "medieval" quite like York, a city of extraordinary cultural and historical wealth that has lost little of its pre-industrial luster. A magnificent circuit of 13th-century walls encloses a medieval spider's web of narrow streets. At its heart lies the immense, awe-inspiring York Minster, one of the most beautiful Gothic cathedrals in the world. York's long history and rich heritage is woven into virtually every brick and beam, and the modern, tourist-oriented city -- with its myriad museums, restaurants, cafes and traditional pubs is a carefully maintained heir to that heritage.

+ In the 19th century, it became part of a major railway network and confectionery manufacturing center. In WWII, the city was bombed during the Baedeker Blitz (a series of aerial attacks in April and May 1942 by the German Luftwaffe on English cities); though it was less affected by the war than other northern cities; several of its historic buildings that had been gutted were restored up to the 1960s.

+ The city is one of 15 in England to have a lord mayor, and one of three to have "The Right Honorable" title affixed, the others being London's and Bristol's. Historic governance of the city was as a county corporate, not included in the county's "riding system" (to emphasize its political impartiality. The city has since been part of a municipal borough, county borough, and since 1996, a non-metropolitan district (the City of York), which also includes surrounding villages and rural areas, and the town of Haxby. (The current district's local council is responsible for providing all local services and facilities throughout this area.)

+ Modern York is the site of the National Railway Museum. York’s many medieval churches and other historic buildings make tourism a significant component of the local economy. The University of York and the archbishop’s residence at Bishopthorpe lie just outside the city center.

+ Just two hours north of London by rail, the city of York holds 1900 years' worth of history in its ancient walls. Although the Romans built the city in 71 AD, the Vikings captured it in 866 CE. (Be sure to stop by the Yorkshire Museum and Gardens for a look at what the Roman and Vikings left behind.) From there, move on to the York Castle Museum for an overview of the most recent 400 years.



In the city of Parma, in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy

 Should you come across Parma ham (prosciutto di Parma) at a store or on a restaurant menu, you would be looking at a specialty product that had made its way there from Italy.

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(in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy, on the Parma River, northwest of Bologna) If reincarnation was made available to you as a late-in-life option, you might want to come back as a Parmesan. I mean, where else would you be able to cycle to work through streets that are virtually devoid of cars, lunch on fresh prosciutto and aged parmigiano reggiano, or quaff crisp, refreshing Lambrusco wine in regal art-nouveau cafes -- and spend sultry summer evenings listening to classical music in architecturally dramatic opera houses?

+ As one of Italy's most prosperous cities, Parma is rather less chaotic than Bologna; this is the city that gave the world a composer called Verdi and enough ham and cheese to supply a deli chain. Widely known for its contributions to world gastronomy (especially parmigiano cheese and Parma ham), Parma has also been revered by opera lovers since the days of Verdi, who was born in nearby Roncole. Parma’s historic sights include the 11th-century cathedral and its baptistry.

+ The city of Parma, founded by the Romans along the Via Aemilia in 183 BCE, was important as a road junction. It was later destroyed by the Ostrogoth king Theodoric. The city was rebuilt in the Middle Ages and was ruled by its bishops from the 9th century. Parma enjoyed communal liberty in the late 12th and 13th centuries, until its involvement in the struggles between the Holy Roman Empire and the papacy in the early 14th century, which led to its subjugation by a series of lordships. Made part of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza by Pope Paul III in 1545, it was held by the Farnese dukes and later passed to the Austrians, from whom it was taken by Napoleon, who in 1815 gave it to his second consort, Marie Louise of Austria. In 1831 and 1848 it took part in the risings for independence and in 1861 became part of united Italy). In 1847, after Marie Louise, Duchess of Parma's death, it passed again to the House of Bourbon. On 15 September 1859 the dynasty was deposed, and Parma entered the newly formed province of Emilia under Luigi Carlo Farini. With the plebiscite of 1860 the former duchy became part of the unified Kingdom of Italy.

+ During World War II, Parma was a strong center of partisan resistance. The train station and marshalling yards were targets for high altitude bombing by the Allies in the spring of 1944. Much of the Palazzo della Pilotta was destroyed. Along with it the Teatro Farnese and part of the Biblioteca Palatina were destroyed by Allied bombs. Several other monuments were also damaged: Palazzo del Giardino, Steccata and San Giovanni churches, Palazzo Ducale, Paganini theater and the monument to Verdi. Parma was liberated from the German occupation on 26 April 1945 by the partisan resistance and the Brazilian Expeditionary Force.



In the town of Gstaad, in the municipality of Saanen, Canton of Bern, Switzerland

 You might want to make your way to Gstaad -- once described by Julie Andrews as "the last paradise in a crazy world" -- to learn why the town has become such a popular destination.

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(in the German-speaking section of the Canton of Bern in southwestern Switzerland) The town of Gstaad is part of the municipality of Saanen and is known as a major ski resort. The winter campus of the Institut Le Rosey is located in Gstaad, at 1,050 meters above sea level.

+ From the beginning, the history of Switzerland's Gstaad has been the stuff of legend. According to local lore, it was God's resting hand that shaped the illustrious hills and valleys of the Saanenland region where Gstaad is located -- divine intervention seemed the only plausible explanation for such remarkable scenic beauty. Even if you have never heard the name Gstaad, you may be at least dimly aware of its reputation.
 
+ Consider (or just imagine, if you will) the cultural mythology surrounding Alpine villages, of snow-covered chalets tucked away amid a stunning mountain landscape where the world's wealthiest and most famous celebrities have spent their winters in a glitzy wonderland of fine-dining, luxury shopping and accommodations -- that would (in reality) be Gstaad!

+ The Gstaad Palace opened in 1913 as the town's first luxury hotel. In 1942 the Saanen-Gstaad airfield was opened for military and civil aviation. Helicopter rides were added later and in 1980 balloon flights became available as well. Most of the modern resorts and small hotels here are built out of wood (and retain traditional design elements). The Gstaad Polo Club was founded in 1992, and the Gstaad Yacht Club in 1998.

+ Uniformity in exterior designs, with wood facades, gabled roofs, and decorative moldings, helps to maintain Gstaad's beloved "frozen in time" feel. In keeping with its cozy, alpine image, homes are comfortable yet stylish, and possess an understated luxury. Interior living spaces also highlight Gstaad's charm with features like fireplaces, wood accents, or large windows with breathtaking views.  

+ The winter months are when Gstaad truly comes alive (the population grows dramatically around the winter holidays.) Many come for superb skiing or other recreation like cross-country skiing, tobogganing, and winter hiking, while others come to slow down and enjoy the quaint yet bon vivant lifestyle -- in the midst of spectacular scenic beauty.

 + Often considered a winter resort, Gstaad attracts many visitors in the summer as well. People come to attend the large, international events held during the summer months, such as world-class sporting competitions like the Swiss Cup, the Hublot Polo Gold Cup, and the Swatch Beach Volleyball Major -- or popular cultural events like the Menuhin Festival or Country Night Gstaad.

+ Gstaad is also home to the winter campus of the Institu Le Rosey, the most expensive boarding school in the world. Founded in 1880, Le Rosey is often referred to as the "School of Kings."



In the city of Potsdam, the capital of the federal state of Brandenburg, on the border of Berlin, Germany.

  "You don't travel to arrive, you travel to travel." -- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe =========================================...