In the city of Vilnius, capital city of Lithuania

 "Don’t put your dreams on hold. Don’t wait for the right time to come. And don’t wait for this or that to be finished. Things change quicker than you think, and suddenly it’s too late. And then you’ll regret it for the rest of your life." -- Hendrik Falkenberg (Time Heals No Wounds [Baltic Sea Crime #1])

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(in Lithuania, the largest and most southerly of the three Baltic republics)
Whether due to the Baltic Sea breeze or its many midsummer days, Lithuania has an otherworldly quality; its beaches are spangled with amber, and woodlands are alive with demonic statues. Medieval-style mead and traditional wood-carving remain in style here.

+ Lithuania is bounded by Latvia to the north, Belarus to the east and south, Poland and the detached Russian oblast of Kaliningrad to the southwest (and the Baltic Sea to the west). Lithuania was a powerful empire that dominated much of eastern Europe in the 14th–16th centuries before becoming part of the Polish-Lithuanian confederation for the next two centuries. Aside from a brief period of independence from 1918 to 1940, Lithuania was occupied by Russia beginning in 1795, was controlled by Germany for a period during WWII, and was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1944 as one of its constituent republics. On March 11, 1990, Lithuania declared its independence. The new Soviet parliament acknowledged Lithuania’s independence on September 6, 1991. Little more than a decade after it regained its independence during the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1990, Lithuania joined NATO, and then the EU in 2004.

+ In Lithuania there is a high level of interest in cultural life. Despite modern influences, Lithuanian folklore continues to be a great part of national heritage. Lithuanian songs and a collection of fairy tales, legends, proverbs, and aphorisms have roots deep in a language and culture that are among the oldest in Europe.

+ A stroll through Lithuania’s capital is like a visual potted history tour; East meets West and old meets new in the moonlit alleyways of Vilnius (shown here), the country's capital city. Other major cities are Kaunas, Klaipėda, Šiauliai, and Panevėžys.

+ There is a dreamy quality to Vilnius, especially in the golden glow of a midsummer evening. Lithuania's capital has an Old Town of rare authenticity; marvellously intact, its pebbly streets are lined with weather-worn period buildings that hide cafes, boutiques. and dainty guesthouses.

+ Vilnius has quite an extensive history, starting from the Stone Age; it was the head of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania until 1795, even during the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth. The city has changed hands many times between Imperial and Soviet Russia, Napoleonic France, Imperial and Nazi Germany, Interwar Poland, and Lithuania. It was often the site of conflict after the end of World War I and during World War II. It officially became the capital of independent, modern-day Lithuania when the Soviet Union recognized the country's independence in 1991.

In the city of Pula, at the southern tip of Istria, in western Croatia

 "Sitting in the morning sun

I'll be sitting when the evening comes
Watching the ships roll in
Then I watch them roll away again,
I'm sittig' on the dock of the bay
Watching the tide roll away,
I'm just sitting on the dock of the bay...."
-- lines from (Sittin' On) The Dock of the Bay,
a (1968) song by Otis Redding
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(in western Croatia at the southern tip of Istria, at the head of the Bay of Pula) The city of Pula, a major port and industrial center, has a large, nearly landlocked harbor in which there is a naval base and the Uljanik shipyards. Conquered by Rome in the 2nd century BCE, Pula by the 2nd century CE was the seat of a Christian bishop, and in later centuries it was part of the territories of Byzantium, of the Franks, and of Venice. In 1380 the Genoese exacted revenge raids on Pula. For some 400 years Pula declined in importance, until the 19th century. Plagues reduced the population to only hundreds in the 1630s. Austria took the town in 1797; after 1866 it became the main harbor and arsenal of the Austro-Hungarian navy. It passed to Italy in 1920 and after 1947 became part of Croatia (which was then part of Yugoslavia).

+ From having controlled the Adriatic, from the southern end of the Istrian Peninsula, Pula has been a strategic prize for a host of power players, going back to the Romans. This city with its natural harbor was developed in Augustan times, and its breathtaking amphitheater, temples, and a collection of arches have somehow survived for 2,000 years.

+ Later, the Venetians made it part of their Adriatic defences, enriching the city with yet more military heritage. But it was the Austro-Hungarian empire that chose this harbor for their imperial maritime arsenal in the 1800s. What remains today, is a city that is filled with majestic old buildings, in a stunning hillside location surrounded by natural parks.

+ The star of the show is still the remarkably well-preserved amphitheater in the heart of the city, which doubles as a venue for summer concerts and festivals. The elliptical amphitheater, completed around 80 CE, seated some 23,000. A temple of Augustus and a Byzantine basilica were extensively restored after the destructive conflict between Genoa and Venice*. The Kaštel, on the hill at the center of the Old Town, is a museum that was previously a fortress. Other highlights of the city are the Roman amphitheater, Triumphal Arch, Augustus Temple, Pula Sea Cave, and Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary (built between the 4th and 5th centuries). There are several beach resorts with popular activities such as fishing, kayaking to sea caves, boating, and dolphin watching.

+ Pula is linked to Trieste (in Italy) and Ljubljana (in Slovenia) by road and rail.
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*The Venetian–Genoese Wars were a series of struggles between the Republic of Genoa and the Republic of Venice, at times allied with other powers, for dominance in the Mediterranean Sea between 1256 and 1381.

In the historic town of Dinkelsbühl, in Central Franconia, on The Romantic Road, in southern Germany

 "Cause all of me loves all of you. Love your curves and all your edges, all your perfect imperfections."

-- a few lines from "All of Me," a (2013) song by John Legend
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(on The Romantic Road [Romantische Straße]), in southern Germany) A "theme route" devised by promotion-minded travel agents in the 1950s, the Romantic Road -- covering nearly 460 kilometers (~290 mi.) of surface roads from the vineyards of Würzburg to the foot of the Alps -- and draws some two million visitors every year, making it the most popular of Germany’s holiday routes. This well-trodden has been cut (with its many curves) through a cultural and historical cross-section of southern Germany as it traverses Franconia and edges Baden-Württemberg in the north before drifting into the state of Bavaria, all the way to King Ludwig II's famous, albeit imperfectly funded, castles. You should, however, expect a good bit of Gemütlichkeit* and hospitality from those who earn their living along this romantic route, especially in southern Germany, specifically in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg, where it links several attractive towns and castles.

+ Featured here is Dinkelsbühl, a relatively small (and often overlooked) town in southern Bavaria -- which is (in my view, after multiple visits over the years), one of the beter stops on the Romantic Road! Dinkelsbühl lies along the Wörnitz River about 20 miles (30 km) southwest of Ansbach. Mentioned in 928, it was fortified in the 10th century and became a free imperial city in 1273. It flourished in the 14th and 15th centuries and withstood eight sieges in the Thirty Years’ War (events commemorated annually in a July festival) before it fell to Gustav II Adolf of Sweden in 1632. The 10th-century walls, along with a moat and 12th-century towers, still surround the city, thus preserving its medieval character and providing one basis for a thriving tourist trade.

+ The city survived the Swedish invasion of 1632 and World War II unscathed. And in 1826, King Ludwig I issued a proclamation preserving the city’s buildings, city walls, and towers. There are more perfectly preserved half-timber structures here than anywhere else in Germany! Notable landmarks include the late Gothic Church of St. George (1448–99; one of Germany’s finest single-naved churches, with a Romanesque tower), the old castle of the Teutonic Order (rebuilt from 1761–64), the fortified town mill (ca. 1390), and the Deutsche Haus (a 14th–15th-century mansion, with a Renaissance facade). Indeed, Dinkelsbühl has a unique architectural style, including Gothic, late Roman, Rococo, and much more.

+ Every Wednesday and Saturday between 8am and 12pm, several market stands come together and offer their products for sale. This neat little farmer’s market (shown here) is found directly in front of St. George’s Church.
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*Gemütlichkeit: a German-language word commonly used to convey the idea of a state or feeling of warmth, friendliness, and much good cheer.

In the city of Sibiu, in the historical region of Transylvania, in central Romania

 (“Even paradise could become a prison if one had enough time to take notice of the walls.”― Morgan Rhodes

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(in central Romania, in the historical region of Transylvania.) Known for being one of the most beautiful walled cities in Europe, Sibiu was founded by the Saxon Germanic tribes, who created wealth and used it to create beautiful buildings and walls to protect this charming medieval town. (It is also known for its well-preserved architecture, vibrant cultural scene, and beautiful landscapes.)

+ The historic center of Sibiu is still partially enclosed by its original 12th-century medieval walls. Be sure to visit the Piata Mare, home to the Brukenthal Palace, containing the main halls of the Brukenthal National Museum. Descend the Passage of the Stairs down into lower Sibiu, and make sure to exhibit your best behavior as you cross the Bridge of Lies. (A trek in the nearby Făgăraș Mountains will lead you past breathtaking ridges and serene glacial lakes.)

+ Sibiu still exudes lots of aristocratic elegance. Noble Saxon history emanates from every art-nouveau facade and gold-embossed church. Renowned composers Strauss, Brahms, and Liszt all performed here in the 19th century, and Sibiu sinve has remained at the forefront of Romania’s cultural scene through its festivals of opera, theater and film. The country's first hospital, school, library, and pharmacy were all established here.

+ Sibiu lies along the Cibin River on the north side of the Turnu Roșu (“Red Tower”) Pass, which links Transylvania to southern Romania across the Transylvanian Alps (Southern Carpathians). The old medieval town has two parts, the upper town built on a terrace and the lower town on the banks of the Cibin, the two being connected through an old district by narrow, cobbled alleys called the Fingerling Stairway.

+ A citadel, built by the Saxon settlers in the 13th century, was destroyed by the Tatars in 1241 and rebuilt in the 14th century. Massive brick walls erected around the upper town gave it the nickname “Red Town,” for the color of the walls, which repelled several Turkish attacks in the 15th and 16th centuries. During that time, Sibiu was an important craft and cultural center of the German communities in Transylvania, boasting 19 guilds in 1376. In 1541 Transylvania became an autonomous Turkish vassal state; but, as the Turks later withdrew from Hungary, Austria regained Transylvania after Romanian opposition in 1699. Sibiu then became the military center of Transylvania and, on two occasions (1703–91 and 1849–65), the capital. (It was ceded to Romania in 1918.)

+ Of the 40 watchtowers on the original inner city wall, three remain -- the octagonal tower of the carpenters, the square tower of the potters, and the pentagonal tower of the cloth makers. Also in Sibiu are a massive Lutheran cathedral (built in the 13th and 15th centuries), an Orthodox cathedral (built 1906, modeled on Hagia Sofia in Istanbul), and an 18th-century Roman Catholic church.

In the city of Novi Sad, in northern Serbia on the banks of the Danube River

 "Cultivators of the earth are the most valuable citizens. They are the most vigorous, the most independent, the most virtuous and they are tied to their country and wedded to its liberty and interests by the most lasting bands."

-- Thomas Jefferson
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(in Serbia's most fertile agricultural region) Novi Sad, a vibrant hub of art and culture on the Danube, is the second biggest city in Serbia and the capital of Vojvodina province. Located on the border of the Bačka and Srem regions in the southern part of the Pannonian Plain, Novi Sad flanks the Danube River and faces the northern slopes of Fruška Gora, a mountain in Syrmia that is administratively part of Serbia, with a part of its western side extending into eastern Croatia. The area under Serbian administration forms the country's oldest national park, which is sometimes also referred to as the Jewel of Serbia, due to its pristine landscape, protection efforts (and many Serbian Orthodox monasteries). 

+ Now Serbia's second largest city, before the 18th century Novi Sad was a but a small fishing village called Petrovaradinski šanac (“Petrovaradin Ditch”). In the south bend of the Danube is the Petrovaradin Fortress, which was rebuilt by the Austrians into the present structure after 1699 as part of the military frontier with the Ottoman Empire. During the period of Turkish rule of Serbia south of the Danube, Novi Sad became a center of Serbian culture in Austrian lands (soon after the Serbian literary society Matica Srpska was founded here in 1826). The Bačka canal system connects with the Danube at Novi Sad -- the economic and cultural focus for northern Vojvodina. (The city’s cultural centers include a university, an art academy, a National Theater, and some museums.)

The city center is dominated by a cathedral and many cafes, proof of the strength of the coffee-drinking culture here. Yet, there is one street more popular than the rest, called Laze Telečkog, where the best bars and pubs are found (though you need to brace yourself for serious drinking here, since each of them serves the famous homemade liqueur called "rakija.)" The looming Petrovaradin Fortress (shown here) seems to keep a stern eye on the proceedings, loosening its scrutiny just a bit each July during the EXIT Festival. (You can walk to all of Novi Sad's attractions from the busy pedestrian thoroughfare, Zmaj Jovina, which stretches from the main square [Trg Slobode] to Dunavska.) If you haven't yet attended this festival, it is about time you do! After the festival, be sure to linger a few days longer. I mean, it is astonishing how quickly the fortress is brought back to its normal condition. (One day you have thousands of hard-partying people dancing until sunset, or later, and the very next day you can see families strolling down the same paths on what appear to be casual afternoon strolls). In addition to offering splendid views of Novi Sad, this fortress' restaurants are also known for their exquisite food.

In the city of Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic

 "Beautiful dreamer, wake unto me,

Starlight and dewdrops are waiting for thee;
Sounds of the rude world, heard in the day,
Lull'd by the moonlight have all pass'd away!
Beautiful dreamer, queen of my song,
List while I woo thee with soft melody;
Gone are the cares of life's busy throng,
Beautiful dreamer, awake unto me...
Beautiful dreamer, beam on my heart,
E'en as the morn on the streamlet and sea;
Then will all clouds of sorrow depart,
Beautiful dreamer, awake unto me...."
-- some lines from the old song, Beautiful Dreamer, by Stephen Foster
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(in Prague, which is one of the most beautiful cities in the world) The capital of the Czech Republic shines with a fresh yet ancient warmth. Unique buildings from every era of architectural history, idyllic coffee houses, traditional bars in the narrow lanes, and other attractive characteristics of an earlier age attract millions of visitors every year.

+ Once a small place at a point where the Vltava river could be forded, the salt and amber trade routes began to converge, and the little market grew to become a hub of the European goods trade, and later became capital of the Holy Roman Empire, under Charles IV in the 14th century. (The citizens could afford to commission leading architects and artists.)

+ This is how Prague became one of the most beautiful cities in the world, with its Baroque-style buildings, churches, and its castle, which towers over the city. The city has been celebrated by great musicians, painters, and writers.

+ In 1784, what had been five independent districts merged into a unique complex of buildings from all periods and styles. In 1992, UNESCO recognized the historic center of the city as a World Cultural Heritage Site.

+ Right in the very heart of Prague is some of the city’s oldest architecture and most iconic and attractive structures. Of these, one that tourists most like to visit and photograph is the statue-lined Charles Bridge (Czech name: Karlův most). 

In the city of Florence, in the Tuscany region of central Italy

 "I can see clearly now, the rain is gone,

I can see all obstacles in my way.
Gone are the dark clouds that had me blind
It's gonna be a bright (bright), bright (bright)
Sun-shiny day!"
-- I Can See Clearly Now lyrics, by Johnny Nash
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(in the Tuscany region of central Italy) Cradle of the Renaissance, romantic, enchanting, and irresistible, Florence (Firenze) is found in the center of the Italian peninsula, surrounded by rolling hills covered with villas, farms, vineyards, and orchards. Capital of the Firenze province and of the Tuscany region, Florence is a great place to feast on world-class art and gourmet Tuscan cuisine. Indeed, there is no better place for Renaissance art and architecture than here -- from the Galleria dell’Accademia (home to Michelangelo’s David) to the cathedrals and arches that make up the Piazzale Michelangelo.

+ The most famous site in Florence is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, on the Piazza del Duomo “cathedral.” The outside of the Duomo is covered with pink, white, and green marble, while the inside contains paintings and stained-glass windows by some of Italy’s finest artists. The building’s dome is a landmark of the city. The cathedral was completed in 1436. Standing next to the Duomo is a campanile, or bell tower, designed by the painter and architect Giotto. The tower is more than 80 meters high and is also covered in pink, green, and white marble. Across from the Duomo is the Baptistry, which is one of the city's oldest buildings. It is known for its bronze doors, which illustrate religious scenes. Another famous church is Santa Croce, which dates back to the 1200s and is the final resting place of many well-known people of Florence, including the famous Renaissance artist Michelangelo. (The Ponte Vecchio is a popular bridge that is lined with shops.)

+ Florence is known for its many museums. One of these is the Uffizi Gallery, located in a huge building originally designed to house the offices of the city government. Today the art galleries of the Uffizi display what is considered to be the richest collection of Italian Renaissance works in the world. Famous paintings include The Birth of Venus by Botticelli, and Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation. Another Florentine landmark, the Pitti Palace, has art, beautifully decorated rooms, and glassware, silver, and jewelry on display. The Gallery of the Academy of Art is the home of Michelangelo’s famous sculpture, David.

+ Today. Florence thrives on tourism, which is based on its cultural attractions and on the work of its outstanding artisans. Art restoration is an important business in the city as well.

+ Florence became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in 1537. Upon the death of the last Medici in 1737, the region of Tuscany and the city of Florence passed to the Austrian Hapsburgs, with brief rule by the French at the beginning of the 1800s. In 1860 Florence joined the newly formed kingdom of Italy, serving as its capital from 1865 to 1870.