Wednesday 20 September 2023

In the city of Mostar, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina

 "[The Balkans] produce more history than they can consume."

-- Winston Churchill
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(in Bosnia and Herzegovina) Mostar is the chief city and, historically, the capital of Herzegovina. It is situated in mountainous country along the Neretva River and lies on the Sarajevo-Ploče rail line. Mostar is the administrative center of Herzegovina-Neretva Canton of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, an entity of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the historical capital of Herzegovina.

+ First mentioned in 1452, Mostar became a Turkish garrison town in the 16th century. In 1566 the Turks replaced the town’s wooden suspension bridge over the Neretva with a stone arch one, whence the name Mostar (from Serbo-Croatian "most," which means bridge).

+ Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (mostari) who in the medieval times guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva. Spanning the Neretva River and linking two parts of the city, the arched Ottoman bridge in Mostar, was initially built from the orders of Suleiman the Magnificient, in 1557, to replace the prior suspension bridge. The construction was finalized nine years later and broke the record for the widest man-made arch in the world, at that time. However, during the Croat–Bosniak War it was used as a military supply line and suffered heavy shelling that caused it to collapse into the water below in 1993. UNESCO and the international community stepped in immediately with plans to rebuild it, and after intense research and technical monitoring, it was rebuilt between 2001 and 2004 with pieces of the old bridge being incorporated into the structure. It is protected by two towers: Helebija and Tara Towers, which are called “mostari” (the [modern] bridge keepers). Since this bridge is the most visited attraction in town, around it you can find many cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, and art galleries. If you are lucky you can see one of the famous divers of Mostar jumping into the cold river below -- an annual tradition here since 1968.

+ The town of Mostar long served as a center for crafts and trade, and its reconstructed coppersmith’s bazaar is a tourist attraction.

+ Stari Most (the Old Bridge) has become an icon for the city of Mostar, and for the entire country. Currently it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stari Most is a symbol of tolerance and a reminder that, despite the Bosnian War, peace between the people of Mostar is possible again. (The bridge was completely destroyed during the war, but the citizens of Mostar managed to move forward, to find the much needed equilibrium to live in harmony, and to rebuild the famous Stari Most.) If you are lucky, you can see one of the famous divers of Mostar jumping into the river below -- an annual tradition here since 1968. (The best place to watch the divers is from the cafe on the north side of the bridge).

+ To learn more about this bridge be sure to visit the Old Bridge Museum situated on the eastern side of Stari Most.



In the city of Vienna, Austria

 “The Congress of Vienna does not walk, but it dances.”

-- Michel, 14th Prince of Ligne
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(in Austria, at the easternmost extension of the Alps in the Vienna Basin) The city of Vienna lies in the northeastern corner of Austria, between the foothills of the Alps and the Carpathians, where the Danube, Europe’s second longest river, has cut its course through the mountains. The city is situated alongside the river, most of it on the right bank. The Vienna basin was a nodal point of ancient trade and military routes. It linked north and south along the “amber route” that ran southward from the Baltic Sea and linked east and west along the Danube. Strategically, Vienna dominates the surrounding regions, which include sections of Austria’s border with Slovakia, the Czech Republic, and Hungary.

+ The capital, largest city, and one of Austria's nine states, Vienna is this country's cultural, economic, and political center. It is the 5th-largest city proper by population in the European Union, and the largest of all cities on the Danube river. Until the beginning of the 20th century, Vienna was the largest German-speaking city in the world, and before the splitting of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in World War I, the city had two million inhabitants. Today, it is the second-largest German-speaking city after Berlin. Vienna is host to many major international organizations, including the United Nations, OPEC, and the OSCE. Along with nearby Bratislava, Vienna forms a metropolitan region with 3 million inhabitants. In 2001, the city center was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Vienna is also known as the "City of Music" due to its musical legacy, as many famous classical musicians such as Beethoven and Mozart called Vienna home. Vienna is also said to be the "City of Dreams" because it was home to the world's first psychoanalyst, Sigmund Freud. The historic center of Vienna is rich in architectural ensembles, including Baroque palaces and gardens, and the late-19th-century Ringstrasse lined with grand buildings, parks, and monuments. It is easy to enjoy the green of springtime in Vienna; green spaces account for half of the urban area. These include parks and gardens as well as the large recreational areas in and around the city.

+ Museums filled with masterpieces, brilliant baroque streetscapes, great palaces and epicurean delights, make Vienna is a must-see destination. Now with street art, craft beer brewing, and summer "beach bars, contemporary Vienna continues to flourish as a creative cultural hub. The Volksgarten Park (shown here) is located on the Ringstrasse and is laid out in the French Baroque style and in the form of an English park. It also has a rose garden with over 3,000 rose bushes of more than 200 different varieties. The Burggarten is situated on the Ringstrasse and is laid out in the English style. It is also home to the Palm House, one of the most beautiful Art Nouveau glasshouses built according to designs by Friedrich Ohmann.



In the island of Porquerolles, also known as the Île de Porquerolles, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France

 "Is it better to have your head in the clouds, and know where you are…than to breathe the clearer atmosphere below them, and think that you are in paradise."

— Henry David Thoreau
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(on a secluded island just off the coast of Hyères on the French Riviera) Porquerolles, also known as the Île de Porquerolles, is an island in the Îles d'Hyères, Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France) The largest and most westerly of the Îles d'Hyères, Porquerolles is about 7 km (4.3 miles) long by 3 km (1.9 miles) wide, with five ranges of hills. The south coast is lined with cliffs, and on the north coast are the island's port and the beaches of Notre Dame, La Courtade, and Plage d'Argent.

+ The island's village was established in 1820, with its lighthouse constructed in 1837, and its church in 1850. The entire island was purchased in 1912 by François Joseph Fournier; he planted 200 hectares (500 acres) of vineyards, which produced a wine that was among the first to be classified as vin des Côtes de Provence. From the village, stroll up to the 14th-century Fort Sainte Agathe, which boasts 360-degree views over Hyères. Just around the corner is Villa Carmignac, an art gallery filled with contemporary works from international artists. The north coast is also dotted with pretty beaches -- Plage Notre-Dame is one of the most beautiful. The south side of the island is a little harder to reach, yet worth a visit to see the towering cliffs and hidden coves. You can explore it by boat, or following the hiking and cycling trails that crisscross the island.

+ In 1971, the state bought 80 percent of this island to preserve it from development. Much of it is now part of a national park (the Port-Cros Parc National) and nature conservation area (Conservatoire botanique national méditerranéen de Porquerolles).

+ Since 2010, the island has hosted a jazz festival ("Jazz à Porquerolles") each summer. Fifteen minutes from the ferry dock is Fondation Carmignac, a large art complex set among the native “pin parasol” trees (which hover high above the land like umbrellas). This rugged island off the coast of Hyéres has market shops, restaurants, and cafés, plus boutiques selling souvenirs. Yet, the main attraction of this paradise is to hike, bike, or mingle with artwork. Ferries leave from the Giens Peninsula, located on the south side of the French Riviera, so book ahead during the summertime high season and join the masses for the 15-minute ride across it. Visitors can spend the better part of an entire day moving back and forth between the outdoor permanent collection of large-scale works and the air-conditioned, 22,000-square-foot galleries that host an annual temporary exhibition from April through November. After a brief repose with a rosé from Domaine La Cortade, a certified organic vineyard, you might want to bike another 15 minutes further, to the crystal-clear cove of Plage Notre Dame (depicted here) for a dip in the deep-blue sea.



In the city of Pula, in western Croatia

 "The pastel-colored seaside towns of Istria could be straight out of Liguria; the rustic hill towns are reminiscent of Umbria. Istria is rich in vineyards and olive groves, and wine and olive oil, along with truffles, are the most prominent exports. And yet Istria remains relatively undiscovered."

-- Kate McCulley
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(in western Croatia) Stuated at the southern tip of the Istrian Peninsula, the city of Pula is known for its multitude of ancient Roman buildings, the most famous of which is the Pula Arena, a well-preserved Roman amphitheaters. The city has a long tradition of wine making, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism. (It was the administrative center of Istria from ancient Roman times until superseded by Pazin in 1991.) Lying at the southern tip of Istria, at the head of the Bay of Pula the city has a large, almost landlocked harbor, in which there is a naval base and the Uljanik shipyards.

+ Conquered by Rome in the 2nd century BCE, Pula by the 2nd century CE was the seat of a Christian bishop, and in later centuries it was part of the territories of Byzantium, of the Franks, and of Venice. In 1380 the Genoese exacted revenge raids on Pula. For some 400 years Pula declined in importance, until the 19th century. Plagues drastically reduced the population in the 1630s. Austria took the town in 1797; after 1866 it became the main harbor and arsenal of the Austro-Hungarian navy.

+ After World War I, Pula (and Istria) became part of Italy and the majority of Croatians suffered oppression during this time as their rights were not respected. After World War II ended in 1945, Pula was administered by the United Nations and British and American units. It passed to Italy in 1920 and after 1947, became part of Croatia (in what was Yugoslavia at the time). Since the collapse of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, Pula has been part of the Republic of Croatia since 1991.

+ Pula's most famous attraction, the well preserved Roman amphitheater, is one of the most famous sights in the whole of Croatia. (A temple of Augustus and a Byzantine basilica were extensively restored after the destructive conflict between Genoa and Venice.) TheTriumphal Arch of the Sergii  was built between 29 and 27 BC in honor of the Sergi family who fought on the side of Octavian, who later became Emperor Augustus, in the Battle of Actium in present-day Greece. The Kaštel, on the hill at the center of the Old Town, is a museum (and was previously a fortress).

+ Historical attractions aside, however, Pula is quite a busy commercial city by the sea that has retained a friendly small-town appeal. Just a short bus ride away, a series of beaches awaits visitors at the resorts that occupy the Verudela Peninsula to the south. (The coast is dotted with fragrant pine groves, seaside cafes, and restaurants.)
+ Pula is also a great base for exploring the protected Cape Kamenjak nature park, to the south, and the Brijuni Islands National Park, to the north.



In the city of Esch-sur-Alzette, in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg

 “The travel sites all describe Luxembourg as a fairy tale come to life, but it feels less like a Grimm land of trolls and big bad wolves, and more like Disneyland Paris."

― Kristopher Jansma
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(in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg) A small landlocked country in Western Europe, Luxembourg borders Belgium to the west and north, Germany to the east, and France to the south. Its capital, Luxembourg city, is one of the four institutional seats of the European Union (together with Brussels, Frankfurt, and Strasbourg) and the seat of several EU institutions, notably the Court of Justice of the European Union, the EU's highest judicial authority.

+ Featured here is the city of Esch-sur-Alzette, which is found on the upper Alzette River, southwest of Luxembourg city, near the French border. A small village until 1870, it later became the second largest town in this country, mainly because of the local phosphoric iron ore (and the town becoming the center of the country’s iron and steel industry). For a long time Esch-sur-Alzette was a small farming village in the valley of the Alzette river. This changed when important amounts of iron ore were found in the area in the 1850s. With the development of the mines and the steel industry, the town's population multiplied tenfold in a couple of decades. On 29 May 1906, Esch-sur-Alzette was promoted to the status of a city. Located in the southwest of the country, it is the capital of the Red Lands region. In the valley of the Alzette river (which flows through the city), Esch-sur-Alzette is surrounded by six communities of Luxembourg: Mondercange to the north, Schifflange to the northeast, Kayl to the east, Rumelange to the southeast, and Sanem to the northwest. To the southwest, the city borders the Audun-le-Tiche community in the Moselle department of France, and to the west Russange (also in the Moselle department).

+ A cosmopolitan city with a lively past, Esch-sur-Alzette is well-known for its charming architecture and its large shopping facilities. A choice of cultural attractions awaits its visitors: the National Museum of the Resistance, the metallurgical factories, Berwart tower, monuments, an architectural walk in the city center, Belvédère parks (Stübben), St. Joseph's church, grotto of O.L. of Lourdes, City Hall, local theater, art galleries, libraries, a music conservatory, and many popular events. The recreation center at Galgenberg offers a beautiful park, with marked walking paths, a rose-garden, waterfall and fountains, playgrounds, an animal park, and several sports facilities.

+ Despite its industrial past, nearly 54% of Esch-sur-Alzette is dedicated to forests, green spaces and parks, and it is home to some great examples of art nouveau, neo-gothic and art deco styles of architecture, as well as the former rejuvenated steelworks site at Belval. (Today, they are home to the University of Luxembourg, several research facilities, and the national archives.)



In the Santanyí municipality on Majorca (or Mallorca), one of the Balearic Islands, Spain

 "I live in Majorca, Spain, and I am not sure there are better places.

-- Rafael Nadal
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(in the southeast of the island of Majorca) Santanyí is a municipality on Majorca (or Mallorca), one of the Balearic Islands, which is found in the westernmost part of the Mediterranean. The town’s original name Santi Annini means "Lamb of God" (the symbol for which can be seen in the parish church and Santanyí’s coat of arms.) The municipality encompasses beaches popular for their scenic beauty. The coast covered by it extends around 35 km (~22 mi.) along the southeast of the island. It also has 172 archaeological sites, with evidence of the existence of a productive agriculture and farming tradition since at least the Talaiotic period (during the Iron Age). This municipality in the southeast of Majorca is home to the towns of Santanyí, Calonge, s'Alqueria Blanca and es Llombards, as well as Cala d'Or, Portopetro, Cap d'es Moro, Cala Figuera, Cala Santanyí, Cala Llombards, and Cala de s'Almunia. Santanyí is also home to a protected natural area known as the Mondragó Natural Parc. Apart from the amazing harbor of Cala Figuera, the town has one of the few fishing harbors in the south of the island. The paradisiacal coves and many art galleries attract international artists every year.

+ A historic town famous for its gold stone architecture, Santanyi is charming, with quaint cobbled streets and a majestic church; it appeals to many due to its slow pace of life. (In times of threat from pirate attacks, which troubled the town; many people took to sleeping in the town’s locked church during invasions.) Forts and defensive towers dating back to the 18th century mark the coastline, most notably Torre d’en Beu, in Cala Figuera. Agriculture was the mainstay of the town until tourism arrived in the 1950s. Today, this beautiful place is particularly popular among Germans for "holidaying." (It also retains a year-round German community.)

+ Santanyi’s location makes for a great base to explore some of Mallorca’s best beaches, and the town becomes quite busy in the summer months -- but has plenty to offer all year round. Do not be surprised if the buildings in Santanyi look a bit more mellow than everywhere -- this town is the source of the golden sandstone used in Palma's cathedral and La Llotja among others. (Santanyi stone is still quarried today.)

+ In summary, Santanyí is pretty, rural, and authentically Mallorcan. Occupying a great position slightly inland from a ravishing coastline, next to the second-largest nature park in the Balearics, this golden-stone village is blessed with stunning natural surroundings. A traditional but upmarket rural town, living in Santanyí appeals to most for its peacefulness and natural beauty, combined with good doses of culture, art, and gastronomy. You will find Mallorcan and Spanish residents intermingling with the German community, as well as smaller numbers of British, Dutch, Scandinavian, and Italian denizens.



In the city of Mönchengladbach, in North-Rhine Westphalia, Germany

 North Rhine-Westphalia is a thrilling state. Nowhere else in Germany are industrial and rural regions so close to each other. There is hardly any other region on earth with a similar concentration of museums, theaters, opera houses, and concert halls.

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(in North-Rhine Westphalia, Germany) The city of Mönchengladbach is a familiar name among football fans, as it is home to the famed Borussia-Park stadium. The city is also known for its extensive greenery, rich cultural heritage, and buzzing art and theater scene.

+ In western Germany, Mönchengladbach lies near the border with the Netherlands, west of Düsseldorf. It developed around a Benedictine monastery (founded in 972, suppressed in 1802), from which the name Mönchengladbach (“Monks’ Gladbach”) is derived, and it was chartered in 1336. Today Mönchengladbach is a textile center; its municipal museum houses a notable collection of Coptic textiles. The city is also a road, rail, and air hub, and its machinery, aeronautical, and cable industries are important to the local economy. Historic buildings include the 13th-century Romanesque cathedral, with an early Gothic choir and a 10th-century crypt, as well as the Baroque Town Hall (formerly the Benedictine abbey), the Romanesque parish church (in the Rheindahlen district), and a 12th-century convent church in the Neuwerk quarter. Educational institutions include the Franciscan Duns Scotus Academy, colleges of textile engineering and agriculture, and a school of economics. Mönchengladbach is known for its choral societies. The city has numerous parks, a botanical garden, and several sports arenas.

+ The history of Mönchengladbach began with the construction of the Gladbach Minster and the founding of an abbey in the year 974 by Gero, Archbishop of Cologne, and his companion, the monk Sandrad of Trier. To improve the settlement, the monks created a market north of the church in the 12th century. Craftsmen settled near the market. Gladbach received its town charter in 1364–1366. The "town" erected a town wall made of stone, which had to be maintained by the citizens. Remains of the wall can be found at the Geroweiher, as can remains of the "Thick Tower," an old fortified tower at the Waldhausener hill. Until the end of the 18th century, the city belonged to the department of Grevenbroich within the duchy of Jülich.

+ In 1815, Gladbach became part of the Kingdom of Prussia and seat of the Landkreis Gladbach, which was dissolved in 1929. In 1815 Gladbach became seat of the Bürgermeisterei (Office of mayor), which was split in 1859 into two parts: the City of Gladbach and Office of Mayor Obergeburth. The latter was renamed to München-Gladbach-Land in 1907.

+ In response to the 10 May 1940 German invasion of Belgium, Mönchengladbach was bombed by RAF Bomber Command on the evening of 11 May. Eventually, the Prussian Rhine Province was dissolved after WWII, and the city became part of the new state of North Rhine-Westphalia, which was formed in 1946.



At Eifel Tower, Paris, the capital city of France

 “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”

– Ernest Hemingway
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(in north-central France) Paris, the capital city of France is found along the Seine River some 233 miles (375 km) upstream from the river’s mouth on the English Channel. The modern city has spread from the island (the Île de la Cité) and beyond both banks of the Seine. Paris occupies a central position in the Paris Basin, and it is by far the country’s most important center of commerce and culture.

+ For centuries Paris has been one of the world’s most important and attractive cities. It is appreciated for the opportunities it offers for business and commerce, for study, for culture, and for entertainment; its gastronomy, haute couture, painting, and literature especially enjoy an enviable reputation. Its sobriquet “the City of Light” (“la Ville Lumière”), earned during the Enlightenment, remains appropriate (for Paris has retained its importance as a center for education and intellectual pursuits).

+ The city's monument-lined boulevards, museums, classical bistros and boutiques are enhanced by a new wave of multimedia galleries, creative wine bars, design shops, and tech start-ups. The cloud-piercing, wrought-iron Eiffel Tower, broad Arc de Triomphe (guarding the glamorous avenue des Champs-Élysées), lamplit bridges spanning the Seine, and art nouveau cafes' are enduring Parisian emblems. There are also some modern and contemporary icons, too, from the Centre Pompidou to the mur végétal (vertical garden) gracing the Musée du Quai Branly, and the gleaming steel egg-shaped concert venue La Seine Musicale.

+ Whether you seek a neighborhood bistro or a Michelin-starred temple to gastronomy, you will find that every establishment prides itself on exquisite preparation and presentation. Enticing patisseries, boulangeries (bakeries), fromageries (cheese shops), and colorful street markets are great for putting together a picnic to take to the city’s parks and gardens.

+ With an illustrious artistic pedigree -– Renoir, Rodin, Picasso, Monet, Manet, Dalí, and Van Gogh are but a few of the masters who have lived and worked here over the years -– Paris is one of the world's great art repositories. In addition to the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay’s exceptional impressionist collection, and the Centre Pompidou’s cache of modern and contemporary art, scores of smaller museums showcase every imaginable genre.

+ This city's grand stone and wrought-iron buildings, the sidewalks brimming with cozy cafés, and the Seine’s curving riverbanks are downright cinematic. The culinary scene creates an endless list of must-eat French dishes -- rich and hearty coq au vin, golden buttery croissants, etc. The spirit of Paris invites lingering in museums, and exploring lots of shops. Head to the Champ-de-Mars to enjoy great views of the Eiffel Tower, as it glitters into the night.



In the city of Dundee, coastal city on the Firth of Tay estuary in eastern Scotland

 London's Trafalgar Square has Nelson, Edinburgh's Princes Street has Sir Walter Scott and Belfast has Queen Victoria outside City Hall. Dundee's City Square, on the other hand, is graced by the bronze figure of Desperate Dan. Familiar to generations of British schoolchildren, Dan is one of the best-loved cartoon characters from the comic Dandy, published since 1937.

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(in eastern Scotland) Dundee, this country's fourth-largest city, lies within the eastern central Lowlands on the north bank of the Firth of Tay, which feeds into the North Sea. Within the boundaries of the historic county of Angus, the city developed into a burgh (town) in the late 12th century and established itself as an important east coast trading port. Rapid expansion was brought on by the Industrial Revolution, particularly in the 19th century when Dundee was the center of the global jute industry. This, along with its other major industries, gave Dundee its epithet as the city of "jute, jam, and journalism."

+ Today, Dundee is promoted as "One City, Many Discoveries" in honor of Dundee's history of scientific activities, and of the RRS Discovery, Robert Falcon Scott's Antarctic exploration vessel, which was built here and is now berthed at Discovery Point. Biomedical and technological industries have arrived since the 1980s, and the city now accounts for 10% of the United Kingdom's digital entertainment industry, including mobile app development and gaming. In 2014, Dundee was recognized by the UN as the UK's first UNESCO City of Design for its diverse contributions to fields including medical research, comics, and video games.

+ The city extends from the Tay to the Dundee Law, which is a prominent volcanic plug with an elevation of 74 meters. The earliest mention of the town dates from the late 12th century, when it was designated a royal burgh. The next several centuries saw repeated sackings of the town and much bloodshed at the hands of the English. Fishing was important in Dundee from early times, and one of Scotland’s largest whaling fleets came to be based here. The city’s traditional textile manufactures became closely linked with whaling in the 19th century after the discovery that jute fiber, when mixed with whale oil, could be woven into sacking for bags and carpet backing. Dundee is also known for its production of confectionery and preserves, particularly marmalade. During the late 20th century, Dundee became a prominent educational and research center, with special strengths in information technology and biotechnology R&D.

+ Few historic buildings and only one town gate (the East Port) have survived the city’s turbulent past. The City Churches, a collection of three parish churches housed under one roof, remain as a focal point in the modern city center. Slum clearance has removed many of Dundee’s old streets, courtyards, and buildings. The University of Dundee dates to 1881; it gained independent university status in 1967.



In the city of Potsdam, the capital of the federal state of Brandenburg, on the border of Berlin, Germany.

  "You don't travel to arrive, you travel to travel." -- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe =========================================...