Saturday, 4 December 2021

In the city of Innsbruck, capital of Austria's federal state of Tirol

 "If I would have listened to the naysayers, I would still be in the Austrian Alps, yodeling." -- Arnold Schwarzenegger

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(in western Austria) One of Europe's most idyllic cities, Innsbruck is nestled in the heart of the Alps. The capital of Austria's federal state of Tirol, it is found on the Inn River, at the mouth of the Sill River, in the Eastern Alps. Coveted by empires and republics throughout its history, the city was the seat of the imperial court of Maximilian I by the end of the 15th century. Explore the Tyrolean capital's history at Archduke Ferdinand II's 10th-century Schloss Ambras, the Tyrolean Folk Art Museum, the grand 15th-century Imperial Palace and Maximilian I's famous Golden Roof. First mentioned in 1180 as a small market town belonging to the Bavarian counts of Andech, it developed rapidly because of its strategic position at the junction of the great trade routes from Italy to Germany, via the Brenner Pass, and from Switzerland and western Europe. The bridge (Brücke) over the Inn originally carried this traffic and gave the city its name and its insignia. Innsbruck was chartered in 1239, passed to the Habsburgs in 1363, and in 1420 became the capital of Tirol and the ducal residence under Frederick, the duke “of the empty pockets.” Napoleon granted the city to the kingdom of Bavaria in 1806, and during the War of Liberation (1809) four battles were fought around Berg Isel, a hill immediately to the south, by Tirolian patriots led by Andreas Hofer against the Bavarians and the French. The Old Town area has narrow streets lined with medieval houses and arcades. One of the most famous buildings is the Fürstenburg, with a balcony with a gilded copper roof, allegedly built by Duke Frederick and refashioned by the emperor Maximilian (around 1500). Other notable landmarks include the Hofburg, on the site of a 15th-century ducal residence) and the Franciscan, or Court, church, containing the mausoleum dedicated to Maximilian I and the tombs of Hofer and other Tirolian heroes. The university was founded by Emperor Leopold I in 1677, and its great library was a gift of the empress  Maria Theresa in 1745.
+ The jagged rock spires of the Nordkette mountain range are so close that within minutes it’s possible to travel from the heart of Innsbruck to more than 2000 meters above sea level -- and alpine pastures where cowbells chime. Summer and winter activities abound here, and it’s quite understandable that some visitors only take a peek at Innsbruck proper before heading for the hills. But to do so is a bit unfortunate, for Innsbruck is in many ways Austria in microcosm: its late-medieval Altstadt is presided over by a grand Habsburg palace and baroque cathedral, while its Olympic ski jump with big mountain views makes a spectacular leap between the urban and the outdoors.



In the Borromean islands, on Lago Maggiore in northern Italy

 "'Lost' is about a bunch of people stranded on an island. It's compelling, but kind of tiny. But what sustains you are the characters." -- Carlton Cuse

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(on Lago Maggiore in northern Italy) On the south side of the Alps, Lake Maggiore is the second largest lake in Italy. Since the climate is mild year-round, the area is filled with Mediterranean vegetation and exotic plants. (Lake Maggiore was featured in Ernest Hemingway's infamous novel, A Farewell to Arms, when the protagonist and his lover must row across the lake, to escape the Italian Carabinieri.) Lake Maggiore is bisected by the border between Lombardy (east) and Piedmont (west). Its northern end is in the Swiss canton of Ticino. The lake is traversed from north to south by the Ticino River, and its other principal tributaries are the Maggia from the north, the Toce from the west, and the short Tresa from Lake Lugano on the east. Off the western shore are the famous Borromean Islands, geologic continuations of the Pallanza Promontory. (Lake Maggiore is known for its warm, mild climate.)
+The Borromean islands are a group of lake islands just off the shore from Stresa, a town on the western shore of Lake Maggiore (in a broad gulf on this shore, a bit separated from the main lake). Three of the islands can be explored, and they are quite popular with visitors because of their pretty villages, villas, and gardens. The three that can be visited are Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola dei Pescatori (another one, Isola San Giovanni, is not open to the public). Featured here, is the most popular of the islands with visitors, Isola Bella ("Beautiful Island"), where you can see the grand baroque style villa and gardens of the 17th century Palazzo Borromeo and a charming little village with narrow cobbled streets winding between ancient houses. Until 1632 the island was just a rocky crag occupied by a tiny fishing village; in that year Carlo III (of the influential House of Borromeo) began the construction of a palazzo dedicated to his wife, Isabella D'Adda, from whom the island takes its name. He entrusted the works to the Milanese Angelo Crivelli, who was also to be responsible for the planning the gardens. (The works were interrupted around midcentury when the Duchy of Milan was struck by a devastating outbreak of the plague.) Construction resumed when the island passed to Carlo’s sons, Cardinal Giberto III and Vitaliano VI; the latter in particular, with the financial backing of his elder brother, entrusted the completion of the works to the Milanese architect Carlo Fontana -- and turned the villa into a place of sumptuous parties and theatrical events for the nobility of Europe. (The completion of the gardens, which were inaugurated in 1671, was left to his nephew Carlo IV.)



In the Pyrenees mountains, in the northwestern part of the province of Lleida, in Spain

 "You have to leave the city of your comfort and go into the wilderness of your intuition. What you’ll discover will be wonderful. What you’ll discover is yourself." -- Alan Alda

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(in the Pyrenees mountains, in the northwestern part of the province of Lleida, in Spain) Found in the scenic Val d’Aran (Aran Valley) in the middle of the Spanish Pyrenees, the village of Arties is surrounded by lush green meadows in Summer and snowy white peaks in Winter. The Aran Valley is considered by those "in-the-know" to be a pristine paradise, perfect for those who like to enjoy the great outdoors, where cycle paths, ski slopes, walks in thick woods on the trail of wild animals, and so much more, can be delightfully enjoyed. Val d’Aran also offers a lot of culture, a rich eno-gastronomic (food and wine tourism) tradition and many great possibilities for soothing relaxation. (In 2014, Aran Valley was the first mountain destination in the world to obtain the certification of sustainable tourism, as a “Biosphere Destination” by the Institute of Responsible Tourism, (a body associated with UNESCO and the World Tourism Organization). 
+ The hamlet of Arties, in the valley, is lined with colorful houses that are connected by old cobbled streets exuding the look-and-feel of many long-bygone centuries. Seemingly disconnected from the world, however, Arties is an ideal destination for romantic escapes, or solo retreats for a bit of quiet time to rethink the meaning (or purpose) of life, if any, while inhaling refreshing samples of cool mountain air. The road at the end of this charming village -- at the confluence of the Valarties and Garonne rivers, in a small widening of the Valley that's dominated by the peak of Montarto (at 2,833 meters) -- leads to the head of the Valarties river where Lake Mar (Lake Tort de Rius), a lake of glacial origin is located. In the old center of the village stands the parish church of Santa. Maria de Arties, a Romanesque structure built from the 11th to the 12th centuries; its elegant bell tower was added around the turn of the 14th century. To the north of the town, to the right of the Garonne river, the church of San Juan de Arties, is a Gothic building of the late14th century, with an octagonal bell tower -- which now serves as a museum facility that hosts traveling exhibitions. {To the south of Arties is the chapel of San Pelegri, with a small bell tower and a semicircular apse.)



At Montserrat, a mountain in the northwestern Barcelona province of Catalonia, Spain

 “I would sooner be a foreigner in Spain than in most countries. How easy it is to make friends in Spain!” -- George Orwell, Homage to Catalonia

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(in Catalonia, Spain) Montserrat, a mountain in the northwestern Barcelona province of Catalonia, is found just west of the Llobregat River -- northwest of Barcelona city. Known to the Romans as Mons Serratus (“Saw-Toothed Mountain”) and to the Catalans as Montsagrat (“Sacred Mountain”), it is famous for its unusual appearance and the Benedictine monastery of Santa María de Montserrat. Jagged, barren pinnacles of reddish sandstone and conglomerate, formed by erosion, rise from the mountain’s base, and it is cloven by ravines; the monastery stands on the edge of the widest of these, the Malo valley, at 730 meters. Christian hermits of Santa María were residing on Montserrat when the Benedictine monastery of Ripoll was granted jurisdiction over them, in the year 888. From the 11th to the early 15th century, a regular priory flourished here, and it obtained independence as an abbey in 1410, the status of which it has held almost continuously ever since. The present basilica was begun in 1560 and the monastery in 1755, though these were extensively rebuilt after their destruction by French troops during the Peninsular Campaign, in 1812. Catalonia's most renowned monastery, Monestir de Montserrat, was established in 1025 to commemorate local shepherds' visions of the Virgin Mary, accompanied by celestial light and a chorus of holy music. (In 880, a group of the shepherds' children allegedly saw a bright light descending from the sky in the Montserrat mountains.) Today, a community of 55 monks lives here. The monastery complex encompasses two blocks: on one side, the basilica and monastery buildings, and on the other, tourist and pilgrim facilities. Admirable monastery architecture lining the main Plaça de Santa Maria includes elegant 15th-century cloisters and a gleaming late-19th-century facade, depicting St George and St Benedict in relief. This mountain is still home to one of the most important religious sites in Spain, which houses an ancient wooden statue of the Virgin and Child that was supposedly carved by St. Luke, taken to Spain by St. Peter, and hidden in a cave during the Moorish occupation. The statue was first found in 880 and has since been venerated by numerous pilgrims, who attribute many miracles to the intercession of the Virgin Mary.



At Chateau de Versailles (Palace of Versailles), France

 "I’m a man of simple tastes, I’m always satisfied with the best." – Oscar Wilde

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(in France) Versailles, the former unofficial capital of France, is found about ten miles (16 km) from Paris. Although the Chateau de Versailles (Palace of Versailles) has been known as the epitome of luxury for centuries, seeing it in person is quite a memorable experience. Once the French royal residence and center of government, and now a national landmark, the original structure was primarily a hunting lodge and private retreat for Louis XIII and his family. In 1624 the king entrusted Jacques Lemercier with the construction of a château on the site. At the direction of Louis XIV, the residence was transformed (between 1661 and 1710) into an immense and extravagant complex surrounded by stylized French and English gardens. The additions were designed by such renowned architects as Jules Hardouin-Mansart, who was also responsible for the other major project at the end of the Sun King’s reign: the Hall of Mirrors. Robert de Cotte, and Louis Le Vau. Charles Le Brun managed the interior decoration. Landscape artist André Le Nôtre created symmetrical French gardens that included ornate fountains with “magically” still water, expressing the power of humanity -- and the king -- over nature. With its chandelier-laden Hall of Mirrors (Galerie des Glaces) and approximately 2,300 rooms filled with paintings, tapestries and other treasures, this attraction in Versailles welcomed eight million visitors in 2019.
+ Featured here (to the right side of this photo) is the (north wing of the) Royal Chapel, Louis XIV’s last major construction project. Built on two levels, it is one of the jewels of the Palace of Versailles (along with the Hall of Mirrors). Officially announced in 1682, the work did not begin until 1699, and was completed in 1710. The resulting Chapel is a treasure of sacred architecture and an impressive showpiece of the Arts of that time. On the building's exterior, there are the Corinthian pilasters (pillars inspired by antiquity and topped with plant decorations), and the numerous statues that top the balustrade. Inside, there is an uninterrupted vault that prominently features the frescoes, while the free-standing columns let in bright light from the large panes of clear glass -- a luxury at the time.. On 05 June 1710, the completed Royal Chapel was blessed by the archbishop of Paris, Cardinal de Noailles, who consecrated what many consider to be Louis XIV’s spiritual legacy.
+ After the French Revolution, Napoleon largely neglected Versailles, and Louis XVIII and Charles X merely kept it up. Louis-Philippe, however, made great alterations, partly with help from patrons in the United States. His biggest contribution may have been the creation of the Museum of French History (on the left of this photo), which was consecrated “to all the glories of France” in an inauguration on 10 June1837, which marked the first celebration at Versailles since the Revolution.



In the Sedgemoor district of the English county of Somerset

 "'Yes, sir', Hicks said. He was a small young man, very officious, who would never contradict a superior. If Morris claimed the clouds were made of cheese Hicks would just stand to attention, twitch his nose, and swear blind he could smell Cheddar." — Bernard Cornwell

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(in the Sedgemoor district of the English county of Somerset) The historic county of Somerset, in southwestern England, is bordered to the northwest by the Bristol Channel, to the north by Gloucestershire to the east by Wiltshire, to the southeast by Dorset, and to the southwest by Devon. Taunton, in west-central Somerset, is the county town (seat). Today, the geographic county of Somerset includes the entire administrative county and the unitary authorities of Bath and North East Somerset and North Somerset. The geographic county is centered on a low-lying basin called Sedgemoor, near the coast. It is bounded to the northeast by the Mendip Hills and on the west by Exmoor and the Quantock Hills. To the north an area of rolling hills, including the southernmost Cotswolds uplands, descends to the valley of the Avon and the lowlands along the Bristol Channel. The Mendips and the Quantock Hills are designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and a large part of West Somerset is occupied by Exmoor National Park. (Long scenic stretches of the county’s coastline have been selected for conservation.) The geographic county of Somerset is mainly agricultural. Dairy farming and stock raising are important, and there is some market gardening. The county is traditionally associated with cider production, and Cheddar (featured here), a large village -- in the Mendip Hills of the Sedgemoor district) that has given its name to the cheese that was first made here. The Sedgemoor, for which the district is named, is a formerly marshy tract drained and protected from the sea by many dikes; it comprises most of the southeastern part of the district. (It was in the Sedgemoor in July 1685 that James Scott, duke of Monmouth and pretender to the throne, was routed by the forces of James II at the Battle of Sedgemoor.)
+ The parish of Cheddar in the historic county of Somerset, is found at the mouth of a spectacular limestone gorge (now owned by the National Trust) in the Mendip Hills. The gorge and caverns -- in which human remains and artifacts dating to the Stone Age have been found -- attract many tourists. Cheddar cheese was first made in the village here ,at (or before) the beginning of the 12th century ,and was aged in the nearby caves. Although the village of Cheddar has been long associated with its famous cheese (which is now produced locally only in limited volume), it is a more of a market gardening center today, especially for strawberries. (Well, ... I mean, ... did you not know that a Cheddar Pecan Cheese Ring with Strawberry Preserves -- a vintage cheese ring recipe -- has been attributed to former the first lady Rosalynn Carter?)



In the city of Madrid, capital of Spain

 Madrid is a city that, with its style and flair, absorbs and holds those who live here or know it well. Madrileños (people from Madrid) have a reputation for being quite attached to their city; in the words of a local proverb, “From Madrid to heaven, and in heaven a little window from which to see it.”

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(in the capital of Spain) A traditional nickname for the Madrileños is gatos (“cats”), originally coined in the Middle Ages as a reference to the ability of local troops to scale castle walls. It would be no less apt as a reference to the local lifestyle and the late hours kept by the city’s inhabitants. People eat late, theaters and cinemas begin performances late as a matter of course, and the siesta is by no means dead. Although the city offers a wealth of cultural events and entertainment; Madrid also has taken on a cosmopolitan character with the influx of immigrants, not only from Latin America but also from Asia, elsewhere in Europe, and North Africa. Not many cities, however, can boast an artistic pedigree quite as pure as Madrid’s: for centuries, Spanish royals showered praise and riches upon the finest artists of the day, from home-grown talents such as Goya and Velázquez to Flemish and Italian greats. Masterpieces by these and other Spanish painters such as Picasso, Dalí and Miró now adorn the walls of the city’s world-class galleries. Meanwhile, Madrid continues to evolve into one of the richest culinary capitals of Europe. From tapas in sleek temples to all that’s new to sit-down meals beneath centuries-old vaulted ceilings, eating in Madrid is a genuine pleasure. Madrid nights are still the stuff of legend, and the perfect complement to the more sedate charms of fine arts and fine dining. The city may have more bars than any other city on earth – but that only goes partway to explaining the appeal of after-dark Madrid. Step out into the night-time streets of many barrios and you’ll find yourself swept along on a tide of people, accompanied by a happy crowd intent on dancing until dawn.
+ Standing in the middle of Puerta del Sol, is the statue of a cuddly bear reaching up to the branches of a tree. These two emblematic figures represent the official Coat of Arms of Madrid. Apparently, the bear, also adorned with the seven stars of the zodiac sign Ursa-Mayor (the Great Bear), had represented the council of Madrid since the year 1212. The tree was added ten years later as the symbol of a treaty, which settled the ongoing dispute between the clergymen and the council over the use of the local fields and forests. It does seem, however, that the use of a strawberry "tree," of all trees, may have had less to do with historical accuracy, and more with the fact that its Spanish botanical name, madroño, sounds a lot like Madrid and madrileño … or so I've been told.



In the scenic town of Spiez, Switzerland

  Spiez, Switzerland – The Lakeside Jewel Where Vineyards Meet the Alps Some places impress you with their beauty, and then there are plac...