Sunday, 20 March 2022

In the seaport and resort city of Split, the Dalmatia region, Croatia

 "If you could show the cabbage I planted with my own hands to your emperor, he definitely wouldn’t dare suggest I replace the peace and happiness of this place with the storms of a never-satisfied greed." -- Diocletian

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(in Dalmatia) The seaport and resort city of Split, the largest in Croatia's Dalmatia region, is found on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea -- with a deep, sheltered harbor on the south side. The city is best known for the ruins of the Palace of Diocletian (built from 295–305). From the year 812, Split developed as a major Byzantine city. In 1105, after brief incursions by Venice (in 998) and Croatia (1069), the city acknowledged the nominal suzerainty of Hungary-Croatia and fought sporadically with its rival, Trogir; from 1420 to 1797 it was held by Venice. The Austrians ruled from 1797 to 1918 with a brief French interregnum in the early 1800s. Split became part of Yugoslavia in 1918, and of independent Croatia in 1992. In the 21st century, Split has become quite popular as a tourist destination, with many interesting places to visit, among which is the famous Diocletian Palace. A great place to see Dalmatian life as it’s really lived, this exuberant city has just the right balance between tradition and modernity. Step inside Diocletian’s Palace (a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s most impressive Roman monuments) and you’ll see dozens of bars, restaurants, and shops thriving amid the city's atmospheric old walls.

+ The Palace of Diocletian, an ancient Roman palace, was built here between 295 and 305 by the emperor Diocletian as his place of retirement (he renounced the imperial crown in 305 and then lived at Split until his death in 313). It is the largest and best-preserved example of Roman palatial architecture, representing a transitional style half Greek and half Byzantine. Taking up a prime harbrside position, the extraordinary palace complex is one of the most imposing ancient Roman structures in existence today. Don’t expect a "palace," though, nor a museum -- this is the city's living heart, its labyrinthine streets packed with people, bars, shops and restaurants. The original arches and columns of the palace wall can be seen by looking up, above the shops and restaurants. It must have presented a magnificent face to the sea, back in the days, with the water lapping at the base of the walls. It's not hard to see why Diocletian built his imperial apartments on this south-facing side of the palace, gazing out over the water.

+ Diocletian, the first Roman emperor to abdicate voluntarily (and the only one to survive his reign), commissioned the palace to be completed in time for his retirement in 305. It was built from lustrous white stone transported from the island of Brač. (Its white marble was imported from Italy and Greece, and columns and 12 sphinxes from Egypt).



In the city of Budapest, Hungary

 “There must be quite a few things a hot bath won't cure, but I don't know many of them." ― Sylvia Plath

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(at the center of the Carpathian Basin, in Hungary) Once called the “Queen of the Danube,” Budapest has long been the focal point of the nation, and a lively cultural center. Straddling the Danube River in a magnificent setting where the hills of western Hungary meet the plains stretching to the east and south, the city consists of two parts: Buda and Pest, each found on opposite sides of the river. Although the city’s roots date to Roman times, modern Budapest reflects an outgrowth of the 19th-century empire of Austria-Hungary, when Hungary was much larger than it is now. Its reduction in size after World War I did not prevent Budapest from becoming the second largest city in central Europe (after Berlin). One out of five Hungarians now lives in the country's capital, which, as the center of Hungarian transport and industry, dominates all aspects of national life. Tens of thousands of commuters converge on Budapest daily, more than half the country’s university students attend school in the city, and about half the country’s income from foreign tourism is realized here. The city, including the banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter, and Andrássy Avenue, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987.

+ Among its many other attributes, Budapest is blessed with lots of hot springs. As a result, "taking the waters" has been an experience here since the time of the Romans. The array of available bathhouses is generous -- you can choose from Turkish-era, art nouveau, and modern establishments. Some people come seeking a cure for whatever ails them, but the majority are here for fun and relaxation -- though many locals maintain that it’s the world’s best cure for what Hungarians call a macskajaj (cat’s wail) -- a.k.a. "hangover." In this majestic city with an aquatic heart, more than 15 million gallons of water bubble into Budapest's 118 springs and boreholes every day. That number points to the great array of baths in this city, from the sparkling Gellert Baths to the vast 1913-neo-baroque Szechenyi Spa (featured here) to Rudas Spa, a dramatic 16th-century Turkish pool with original Ottoman architecture.

+ The Széchenyi Thermal Bath is the largest medicinal bath in Europe. Its water is supplied by two thermal springs, at temperatures of 74 °C (165 °F) to 77 °C (171 °F). This "spa," located in the City Park, was built in Neo-Baroque style in the early 1900s, with designs by architect Eugene Schmitterer. The total area covered was 6,220 square meters (67,000 sq ft). The complex was expanded in 1927 to its current size, with three outdoor and 15 indoor pools. Its main thermal spring supplies 6,000,000 liters (1,600,000 US gallons) of hot water daily. The baths maintain pools at varying temperatures. The outdoor pools (swimming pool, adventure pool and thermal sitting pool) are 27 to 38 °C (81 to 100 °F).



In the city of Vanhakaupunki ("Old Town") neighborhood in Helsinki, Finland

 “The very essence of architecture consists of a variety and development reminiscent of natural organic life. This is the only true style in architecture.”

-- Alvar Aalto (the Finnish architect and designer)
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(on the edge of the Baltic Sea in the region of Uusimaa, on the shore of the Gulf of Finland) The modern, cosmopolitan capital city of Helsinki is the capital of Finland, which is famed for its streamlined, functional, stylish design. In the 20th century, pioneers such as Alvar and Aino Aalto cemented its reputation, and the capital remains the country's creative hub. Helsinki's design scene is one of the most electrifying in the world today, and a major influence across the planet. Boutiques, workshops and galleries filled with glassware, lighting, textiles and innovative homewares proliferate in the Design District just south of the center in Punavuori, which is home to Helsinki's superb Design Museum, and throughout the city, from its thoroughfares to repurposed industrial spaces. Entwined with the Baltic's bays, inlets and islands, Helsinki's boulevards and backstreets overflow with magnificent architecture, intriguing drinking and dining venues -- and much evidence of groundbreaking architecture. Taking its cues from the design scene, architecture in Helsinki is flourishing. Contemporary highlights include the Kiasma museum of contemporary art and concert hall Musiikkitalo. Modernism is exemplified by Alvar Aalto's Akateeminen Kirjakauppa, and Finlandia Talo concert hall, along with Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen's astonishing rock-carved church, the Temppeliaukio. Finland's art-nouveau movement, National Romanticism, has left a glorious legacy of buildings from the era such as Helsinki's beautiful train station. Functionalism, wooden architecture (including 1920s classicism and 2012's Kamppi chapel) and Byzantine-Russian, neo-Renaissance and neoclassical styles are all woven into the city's fabric.

+ While it's a culture-packed urban centre, Helsinki is surrounded by sublime natural environment that's easily reached from every part of the city. Opportunities to get active abound here, from boating to its archipelago's islands, strolling along its beaches and through its extensive parks and gardens, and hiking in its surrounding forests. When snow blankets the city in winter and the seas freeze over, snowshoeing, cross-country and downhill skiing, ice skating, and ice fishing on the many bays are all invigorating ways to keep warm while staying in touch with nature.

+ Shown here, is the Vanhakaupunki ("Old Town") neighborhood in Helsinki. (The city actually started from this small place). In 1550, Gustav Vasa decided to establish a new city here, near the Vantaa River. These days, people come to Vanhakaupunki for many reasons; they can find outdoor enthusiasts, fishing-folk, or museum seekers -- while just exploring the Old Town.



In the Fassa Valley (Val di Fassa), which is found in the Dolomiti Superski area, northern Italian Alps

 “If the path be beautiful, let us not ask where it leads.” -– Anatole France

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(in the in the eastern section of the The Dolomites are widely regarded as being among the most attractive mountain landscapes in the world. Their intrinsic beauty derives from a variety of spectacular vertical forms such as pinnacles, spires and towers, with contrasting horizontal surfaces including ledges, crags and plateaus, all of which rise abruptly above extensive talus deposits and more gentle foothills. A great diversity of colors is provided by the contrasts between the bare pale colored rock surfaces and the forests and meadows below. The mountains rise as peaks with intervening ravines, in some places standing isolated but in others forming sweeping panoramas. Some of the rock cliffs here rise more than 1,500 meters and are among the highest limestone walls found anywhere in the world.

+ Featured here is the Fassa Valley (Val di Fassa), which is found in the Dolomiti Superski area on the famous Sellaronda circuit --enabling pectacular views of the surrounding mountains. The Fassa Valley lies in Trentino-Alto Adige, made up of two provinces, the Italian-leaning Trento (or Trentino) in the south and the Germanic-leaning Alto Adige (or Südtirol (also called Bolzano-Bozen) in the north. Home to numerous lovely towns, castles, and historic sights, the main attraction here is the Dolomites. Surrounded by some of the most famous and impressive peaks of the Dolomites, like Catinaccio, Sella Group, Marmolada and Sassolungo, to list just a few (and some characteristic villages, like Moena and Canazei), outdoor adventure opportunities abound year-round, with skiing, climbing, and hiking among the most popular pursuits.
+ Depicted here is Canazei, a well-known tourist destination for winter and summer holidays that is one of the most renowned resorts in the Val di Fassa. It is part of the Sellaronda, the ski tour that connects the valleys around the Sella. Nestled between some of the most beautiful ranges in the Dolomites,
 the Sassolungo, the Sella Group, and the Marmolada, it is located near some famous passes: the Fedaia Pass that connects it to Rocca Pietore, the Pordoi Pass that connects it to Arabba and to Badia, and the Sella Pass that connects it to Val Gardena. With marvelous landscapes, painted houses, and exclusive hotels, it is a destination for holidays all-year-round. (Indeed, the most attractive ski slopes of the Val di Fassa (with fairytale hiking routes, traditional festivals, and tasty cuisine) as found here -- not to mention many international events.

+ Canazei consists of several hamlets, including Alba di Canazei, directly connected to the Ciampac-Buffaure ski area, and Penia di Canazei, where the traditional Carnival takes place.



In Kensington and Chelsea, the royal borough in inner London, England

 "Go where we may, rest where we will,

Eternal London haunts us still." -- Thomas Moore
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(in the heart of London, England) Kensington and Chelsea, the royal borough in inner London, is part of the historic county of Middlesex. It occupies the north bank of the Thames River west of the City of Westminster. Forming part of London’s fashionable West End district, it is predominantly residential in character and includes a royal palace and the embassies of several countries. The borough includes areas such as North Kensington, Notting Hill, Kensington (featured here), part of Knightsbridge, Brompton, Earl’s Court, West Brompton, and Chelsea. (In medieval times the Manor of Chelsea was in the possession of Westminster Abbey.) With the dissolution of the monasteries in the 1530s, Henry VIII confiscated the manor, together with Sir Thomas More’s estate, and gave it to his last wife, Catherine Parr. Kensington Palace, which is still occupied by members of the royal family, is an originally Jacobean construction. Queen Victoria was born there in 1819. Notable buildings here include Earl’s Court Exhibition Hall, a massive reinforced-concrete structure covering 12 acres (5 hectares) of land, the Chelsea Old Church (which was associated with Sir Thomas More in the 1500s), the surviving wings of the 17th-century Holland House, and the Linley Sambourne House (a Victorian townhouse within which are displayed the 19th-century decor, and furniture of its namesake).

+ Splendidly well groomed, Kensington is one of London’s most attractive neighborhoods. Visitors find three fine museums here – the Victoria & Albert, the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum -- as well as excellent dining and shopping, graceful parklands and elegant streets of grand period architecture. This district's commercial heart is Kensington High Street, running on an east–west axis. The northeast is taken up by Kensington Gardens, containing the Albert Memorial, the Serpentine Gallery, and Speke's monument. South Kensington and Gloucester Road are home to Imperial College London, the Royal College of Music, the Royal Albert Hall, Natural History Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, and Science Museum. (The area is also home to many international embassies and consulates -- and politicians.)

+ Just like double-decker buses, red phone boxes and palace guards with the funny hats, Harrods (dimly depicted here) is a true London icon. First opened in 1824, it has grown to become the largest department store in Europe, and one of Kensington’s biggest tourist attractions. Every year, hundreds of thousands of people are tempted to lose many of their "pounds" in this shopper’s paradise -- and, somewhat ironically for a store whose motto translates as "all things for all people, everywhere," still more come to wistfully gawk at the windows. For those who aren’t keen on dropping a princely sum for a new watch, there are other options, like teddy bears and chocolate bars.



In the city of Prague, capital city of the Czech Republic

 "Icon of Prague, the medieval bridge crossed the Vltava between Old Town and the Little Quarter. Gothic bridge towers rose on both sides, and the whole span, pedestrian-only, was lined by monumental statues of saints." -- Laini Taylor

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(in the capital city of the Czech Republic) Strolling across Charles Bridge is everybody’s favorite Prague activity. However, by mid-morning it’s a 500 meters-long fairground, with crowds of tourists squeezing through a gauntlet of hawkers and buskers beneath the impassive gaze of the baroque statues that line the parapets. If you want to experience the bridge at its most atmospheric, try to visit it at dawn -- or dusk.
+ In 1357 Charles IV commissioned Peter Parler (the architect of St. Vitus Cathedral) to replace the 12th-century Judith Bridge, which had been washed away by floods in 1342 -- you can see the only surviving arch of the Judith Bridge by taking a boat trip under the bridge. The new bridge was completed in 1390, and took Charles’ name only in the 19th century -- before that it was known as Kamenný most (Stone Bridge). Despite occasional flood damage, it withstood wheeled traffic for some 500 years -– until it was made pedestrian-only after WWII. The first monument erected on the bridge was the crucifix near the eastern end, in 1657. The first statue (the Jesuits’ 1683 tribute to St John of Nepomuk) inspired other Catholic orders, and over the next 30 years twenty more went up, like ecclesiastical billboards. New ones were added in the mid-19th century, and one (plus replacements for some lost to floods) in the 20th. As most of the statues were carved from soft sandstone, several weathered originals have been replaced with copies. Some originals are housed in the Casements at Vyšehrad; others are in the Lapidárium in Holešovice. The most famous figure is the monument to St John of Nepomuk. According to the legend on the base of the statue, Wenceslas IV had him trussed up in armor and thrown off the bridge in 1393 for refusing to divulge the queen’s confessions (he was her priest), though the real reason had to do with the bitter conflict between church and state. The stars in his halo allegedly followed his corpse down the river. Tradition says that if you rub the bronze plaque, you will one day return to Prague. (A bronze cross set in the parapet between statues 17 and 19 marks the point where he was thrown off.)

+ The bohemian allure and fairytale features of Prague make it a perfect destination for culture seekers who want to immerse themselves in history, art, music, and architecture. You could devote an entire day to exploring Prazsky hrad (Prague Castle), then relax over a hearty dinner at a classic Czech tavern. Spend time wandering Old Town Square before heading over to the Astronomical Clock as it performs a mechinical promenade on the hour. Prague’s historic pubs are known as popular places wgere you can spend the better part of a night tipping back central Europe's better beers.



In the city of Heidelberg, southwest Germany

 “Have you also learned that secret from the river; that there is no such thing as time? That the river is everywhere at the same time, at the source and at the mouth, at the waterfall, at the ferry, at the current, in the ocean and in the mountains everywhere,and that the present only exists for it, not the shadow of the past nor the shadow of the future.” ― Hermann Hesse, Siddhartha

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(in southwest Germany) The city of Heidelberg is found on the Neckar River where it emerges from the forested hills of Odenwald, into the Rhine plain. It was first mentioned in 1196 and was the capital of the Rhenish Palatinate and the residence of the electoral counts palatine until 1720. Surrounded by forest, Germany’s oldest and most famous university town is renowned for its baroque Altstadt (Old Town), beautiful riverside setting and evocative half-ruined hilltop castle, which draw around 12 million visitors, in a "normal" year. They follow in the footsteps of the late 18th- and early 19th-century romantics, most notably the poet Goethe and Britain’s William Turner, who was inspired by Heidelberg to paint some of his greatest landscapes. In 1878, Mark Twain began his European travels with a three-month stay in Heidelberg, recounting his observations in A Tramp Abroad. Heidelberg's rich literary history, along with its thriving contemporary scene, reslted in it being named a UNESCO City of Literature in 2014.

+ Although hit hard during 17th-century wars, Heidelberg was rebuilt in the 18th century with baroque buildings. (The city experienced considerable growth in the 20th century.) For a pleasant walk, stroll through the historic city center's Gothic streets. Be sure to take in Heidelberg Castle, the symbolic heart of the city; Alte Brucke (Old Bridge), an 18th-century bridge; and, the Student Jail. Built as long ago as the 16th century, it was used to keep mischievous students off the streets for three days to a month at a time. The University of Heidelberg (Ruprecht-Karl-Universität), the oldest higher educational institution in Germany, was founded by Rupert I and chartered by Pope Urban VI in 1386. The university's Geological-Paleontological Institute houses the Heidelberg jaw, a fossil jawbone, perhaps 500,000 years old, which was found in the vicinity in 1907. Local structures that were not razed in 1693 are the Heiliggeistkirche (Holy Ghost Church), the Marstall (formerly the Royal Mews), and the Knight’s House. Other landmarks include the Old (or Karl-Theodor) Bridge (depicted here), the Town Hall, and the Jesuitenkirche.

+ Heidelberg’s Altstadt has a red-roofed townscape of remarkable architectural unity. After having been all but destroyed by French troops under Louis XIV (1690s), it was rebuilt during the 18th century. Unlike many German cities, it emerged from WWII almost unscathed. (Now 925 years old, Heidelberg has a population of around 150,000, with more than 39,000 of them students.)



In the capital city of Blegrade, Serbia

BELGRADE — WHERE RIVERS, EMPIRES AND HISTORY COLLIDE Some cities are defined by their monuments. Others are defined by their atmosphere. Bel...