Thursday, 22 September 2022

In the city of Plovdiv, Bulgaria

 “Travel does what good novelists also do to the life of every day, placing it like a picture in a frame or a gem in its setting, so that the intrinsic qualities are made more clear.”-- Freya Stark

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(in Bulgaria) One of Europe’s oldest inhabited cities, Plovdiv is the second largest city in Bulgaria. Inhabited since 4000 BCE., beginning with a Neolithic settlement, Plovdiv has been conquered many times throughout its history, including by the Greeks and the Romans, which is evident in the ancient ruins found across the city. Some of the highlights include the Ancient Stadium of Philippopolis (an old name for Plovdiv); the Roman Amphitheater, which still hosts major events; and the Ruins of Eumolpias, a Thracian settlement from 5000 BCE.

+ Found n the south-central part of the country, Plovdiv lies along the Maritsa River and is situated amid several hills that rise from the Thracian Plain to a height of 120 meters. Called Pulpudeva in Thracian times, it was renamed Philippopolis in 341 BCE after its conquest by Philip II of Macedonia. From 46 CE, it was called Trimontium and was the capital of the Roman province of Thrace. Plovdiv repeatedly changed hands during the Middle Ages until 1364, when it was taken by the Turks, who called it Philibé. After the Russo-Turkish War (1877–78), it became capital of Turkish Eastern Rumelia, which united with Bulgaria in 1885. (It officially assumed its present name after World War I.)

+ With an easy grace, modern Plovdiv mingles invigorating nightlife among millennia-old ruins. It is best loved for its romantic Old Town, packed with colorful 19th-century mansions that are now house-museums, galleries, and guesthouses. Yet, cobblestoned lanes and National Revival–era nostalgia are but part of the story. Plovdiv is the cultural capital of Bulgaria and was the European Capital of Culture in 2019. It is quite an important economic, transport, cultural, and educational center. (Plovdiv joined the UNESCO Global Network of Learning Cities in 2016.) Its music and art festivals draw increasing crowds, while renovations in the Kapana creative quarter and Tsar Simeon Gardens have given the city new confidence. Once an amiable waystation between Bulgaria and Greece or Turkey, the city has flowered into a destination in its own right -- and one that should be on any itinerary through central Bulgaria.

+ There are many preserved ruins such as the ancient Plovdiv Roman theater, a Roman odeon, a Roman aqueduct, the Plovdiv Roman Stadium, the archaeological complex Eirene, and others. Plovdiv is host to a variety of cultural events such as the International Fair Plovdiv, the international theatrical festival ("A stage on a crossroad"), the TV festival ("The golden chest"), and many more novel festivals, such as Night/Plovdiv in September, Kapana Fest, and Opera Open. The oldest American educational institution outside the United States, the American College of Sofia, was founded in Plovdiv in 1860 and later moved to Sofia.



In the old village of Roquebrune, southeastern France

 “Happiness is neither virtue nor pleasure nor this thing nor that but simply growth, We are happy when we are growing.”

-- William Butler Yeats
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(in southeastern France) Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, the French Riviera paradise beloved by artists and writers, is a municipality in the Alpes-Maritimes department of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region, between Monaco and Menton. (Its current name was changed from Roquebrune to differentiate the town from Roquebrune-sur-Argens in neighboring Var.)

+ The medieval part of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin sits 300 meters-high, on a pudding-shaped lump crowned by the Château de Roquebrune. Of all the steep and tortuous streets leading up to the château, rue Moncollet, with its arcaded passages and rock-carved stairways, is the most impressive. (Marvelous sea views can be enjoyed from place des Deux Frères.)

+ From the middle of the 19th century, with the construction of the Marseille–Ventimiglia railway line, this stretch of coast also became a magnet for well-known personalities as a holiday home. Elisabeth of Austria spent the last years of her life from 1894 to 1897 at the Hôtel du Cap Martin. Eugénie, widow of Napoleon III, owned a villa here. The area became fashionable in the 1920s and 1930s leading to the construction of several notable buildings including Coco Chanel's La Pausa on Cap Martin. The Irish poet and Nobel Laureate William Butler Yeats died in the Hôtel Idéal Séjour in the neighboring town of Menton on 28 January 1939. The literary couple Romain Gary and Lesley Blanch lived in Roquebrune from 1950 to 1957. Le Corbusier built a cabanon, a minimalist architectural design. He drowned in the sea here on 27 August1965 and was buried in the local cemetery.

+ Roquebrune-Cap-Martin has several villages and towns: St. Roman (practically a suburb of Monaco), the residential areas of Cabbé, Bon Voyage and Serret, and Roquebrune (with its perched village and castle), posh Cap Martin peninsula and the modern seaside resort of Carnolès (with its long pebble beach bordering Menton). The whole area has a major tourism industry, particularly during the high season from April to October.

+ Roquebrune village is best known for, and dominated by, its castle, which was built in the 10th century to keep the saracens out, and the castle donjon (the massive inner tower) is thought to be the oldest in France. Much of the castle's visitors now see was added later by the Grimaldi family, once very powerful in the region. It is from inside the castle that they can enjoy the best views in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, across the village rooftops and an extensive length of coastline.

+ In the old village of Roquebrune you can also see the Church of Saint-Marguerite (the tower of which can be seen in the image below), which dates back to the 12th century but was substantially rebuilt in 1573, and then further enhanced during the 17th century and again in 1750 (and then redecorated in the 19th century to gain its current appearance.)



In the town of Ronda in the Málaga province of Andalusia, southern Spain

 On 10 October 1985, George Orson Welles died from a heart attack. Welles' body was cremated, and two years later his remains were dropped down a well on a small finca (ranch) on the outskirts of Ronda, a patch of earth owned by an old bullfighting friend, Antonio Ordóñez.

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(in southern Spain) The town of Ronda in the Málaga province of Andalusia, lies in the Ronda Mountains west of Málaga city. The town is situated on two hills divided by a deep ravine (El Tajo de Ronda) containing the Grande River, a tributary of the Guadiaro River. The ravine is crossed by several bridges, most notably an arch structure that is 90 meters high, which was built in 1761.

+ Around the town are remains of prehistoric settlements dating to the Neolithic Age, including the rock paintings of Cueva de la Pileta. Ronda was, however, first settled by the early Celts, who called it Arunda in the 6th century BCE. The current Ronda is of Roman origins, having been founded as a fortified post in the Second Punic War, by Scipio Africanus. Ronda received the title of city at the time of Julius Caesar. The town occupies the site of an ancient Iberian settlement and was known in Roman times as Acinipo. It was occupied by the Moors from the 8th to the 15th century, when it was reconquered by the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, on 20 May 1485. Both Roman and Moorish remains survive, including a Roman theater and an underground staircase built from the town to the river by the Moors to prevent water blockades in times of war. Spain’s oldest bullring, a stone Neoclassical structure is also found in Ronda; it is now a museum. An agricultural trade center, Ronda is surrounded by national parks, including the Los Alcornocales Natural Park (one of Spain’s most important cork-oak forests).

+ Built astride a huge gash in the mountains carved out by the Río Guadalevín, Ronda is a brawny town with a dramatic history littered with outlaws, bandits, guerrilla warriors, and rebels. Its spectacular location, atop El Tajo gorge, and its status as the largest of Andalucía’s "white towns" have made it quite popular with tourists. Modern bullfighting was practically invented here in the late 18th century, and the town’s fame was spread further by its close association with American Europhiles Ernest Hemingway (a lover of bullfighting) and Orson Welles (whose ashes are buried in the town).

South of the gorge, Ronda’s Old Town largely dates from Islamic times, when it was an important cultural center that was filled with mosques and palaces. Further north, the 18th-century grid-shaped, "new"' town is perched atop steep cliffs, with parks and promenades looking regally over the surrounding mountains.

+ Ronda’s most striking feature is the Puente Nuevo, which spans a gorge over 300 feet deep. The town’s bullfighting ring is used once a year at the Feria Goyesca, but it is also a museum where you can learn about the history of this traditional "sport."



In the city-State of Bremen, in northwestern Germany, Bremen

 Bremen, one of Germany’s three city-states (along with Berlin and Hamburg), is known for being among the country’s most outward-looking and hospitable places, with a vibe that strikes a good balance between style, earthiness, and good living.

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(in the City-State of Bremen) In northwestern Germany, Bremen -- an enclave within the state of Lower Saxony that comprises the cities of Bremen and Bremerhaven -- is found on the Weser River some 43 miles (~70 km) from the North Sea. It is one of the largest ports of Germany and also one of the major industrial cities of northern Europe. Together with the port of Bremerhaven, situated 37 miles (~60 km) to the north, it forms the smallest of the states of Germany but is of vital economic importance.

+ Located at the first ford above the river estuary, the Old Town of Bremen grew on a sand dune, sited above flood level on the Weser spillway (the glacially widened river channel).

+ Bremerhaven handles about one-fourth of the total tonnage of goods in the two ports, just over half of which is mixed cargo, the remainder being composed of such bulk goods as grain, coal, ore, and oil. The merchant fleet of Bremen consists of several hundred seagoing vessels and many barges. The city of Bremerhaven, which covers 31 square miles (~80 square km), was founded as an outer port for Bremen because of the silting up of the lower Weser. (Today the port of Bremerhaven is the home of a large fishing fleet).

+ Nature is never far away here, but Bremen is better known for its fairy-tale character, and unique Expressionist quarter. It is also one of Europe's leaders in science and technology, home to the Airbus Defense and Space headquarters and a major Mercedes Benz plant. Bremen offers a relaxed, unhurried lifestyle. Closer inspection reveals some vibrant districts with fine restaurants busy bars, a lively entertainment calendar, a bunch of great museums and a lovely Altstadt (Old Town).

+ Bremen is now one of Europe's leaders in science and technology, home to the Airbus Defense and Space headquarters and the Mercedes Benz plant. It brings the high-tech, science, and space industries together beneath a truly metropolitan backdrop. In a city where innovation, beauty, and sophistication meet, it is hardly possible to avoid feeling the life force here.

+ In this 1,200-year-old Hanseatic city, visit the Schlachte Promenade on the River Weser, the full-sized Columbus Space Module of the International Space Station, and the Universum Science center.

+ The bronze statue on the western side of the Town Hall is the most famous representation of Die Stadtmusikanten (The Town Musicians), which portrays the donkey, dog, cat and rooster of the Grimm Brothers' fairy tale. Local artist Gerhard Marcks cast this 1951 statute of the famous quartet in their most famous pose -- scaring the robbers who invaded their house, with the rooster atop the cat, perched on the dog, on the shoulders of the donkey.



In the city of Esch-sur-Alzette, in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg

 "Luxembourg was and still is today a crossroads, the place where Germany meets the rest of Europe. The country lost part of its territory to Belgium in the 1800s, and during World Wars I and II the German military overran it." — I.M. Pei

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(in Luxembourg, on the border with France in the valley of the Alzette River) Stretching just 82 km (~51 mi.) and 57 km at its longest and widest points respectively, diminutive Luxembourg is a charming slice of northern Europe that consistently ranks among the world's top three nations in wealth. The Grand Duchy's capital, Luxembourg City, has a fairy-tale quality to its UNESCO-listed historic core, perched on a dramatic clifftop. Beyond in the rolling forested hills, a string of beguiling villages clusters beneath stunning medieval castles. Then there is superb wine tasting in the Moselle Valley and invigorating hiking in the rugged, rocky gorges of the Müllerthal region. (Luxembourg has recovered impressively from widespread destruction during WWII, a sad history remembered in war museums across the country.)

+ Featured here, however, is Esch-sur-Alzette, a canton in the south of the country. Its capital is Esch-sur-Alzette, the second city of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. It lies on the border with France on the Alzette, which flows through the city; it is usually referred to as just Esch; however (the full name distinguishes it from the village of Esch-sur-Sûre, which lies 45 km [~28 mi.] further north.) Luxembourg City, is roughly 15 km (~9 mi.) to the northeast. (Esch was selected as the European Capital of Culture for 2022, alongside Kaunas [in Lithuania] and Novi Sad [in Serbia].)

+ A small village until 1870, Esch-sur-Alzette, it eventually became the second largest city in Luxembourg, largely because of the local phosphoric iron ore, and the center of the country’s iron and steel industry. Although this industry declined in the second half of the 20th century, steel and iron remain important products. (The area has also produced slag fertilizer and foodstuffs.)

+ A cosmopolitan city with a lively past, Esch-sur-Alzette is well-known for its architectural charms. Although Esch-sur-Alzette was first mentioned in 773, it was Henri IV, Count of Luxembourg, who granted the town its freedom in 1287. Esch-sur-Alzette was fortified in 1311, then dismantled in 1671; its growth is largely due to the discovery in 1838 of "minette" iron ore. Thereafter the rural village became a prosperous industrial center. 1906 was a key year, marked by the implementation of the Wirtz-Krasnick scheme, which laid down the alignment of the city's streets. This was followed in 1924 by the improvement scheme, with new districts designed by the German town planner Joseph Stübben.

+Throughout these years the initiators were German, Belgian, and French as well as Luxembourgish -- and the influences of Germanic and Latin architecture are evident. That makes Esch-sur-Alzette a real melting-pot of European architecture.



In the port city of Santander, in the province of Cantabria on the north coast of Spain

 "To write is to get out of oneself and understand other worlds."

— Cesar Fernandez Garcia
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(in the province of Cantabria on the north coast of Spain) The port city of Santander, capital of Cantabria province, is found on the narrow coastline along the southern shore of Cape Mayor, a rocky peninsula that extends eastward, sheltering Santander Bay (an inlet of the Bay of Biscay). The center of the lower town was rebuilt after it was destroyed by fire spread by a windstorm in 1941. Notable surviving buildings include the Magdalena Palace, presented by the town to King Alfonso XIII; a Gothic cathedral; the library of the contemporary writer and historian Marcelino Menéndez y Pelayo; and the provincial museum, with a collection of prehistoric artifacts from the locality. Santander has a summer university and is an episcopal see. (The University of Santander was founded in 1972.) The city hosts a month-long arts festival each summer.)

+ Situated on the coast, Santander boasts a slower pace of life and lots of gorgeous natural wonders, which give it a relaxing, easygoing vibe. To see the best of Santander's offerings, take a long walk along the city's waterfront (starting at the Paseo de Pereda). Also save some time for swimming and sunbathing at popular stretches of sand like El Sardinero and Playa de Mataleñas. (The latter overlooks the striking Magdalena Peninsula.)

+ The city's economy is based on tourism, fishing, heavy industry and activities connected with the port (shipbuilding). Manufacturing includes iron refining, steelmaking, and agriculture, especially cattle raising. Large warehouses make up the bay’s industrial landscape. Santander’s other major industries are finance, public administration, and health and education services.

+ Although much of the medieval city was lost in the Great Fire of 1941, its remaining Old Town, beach, and other attractions are quite popular today with tourists and other visitors, and its economy is mainly service based. The port is still very active and a regular ferry service operates to the United Kingdom. Fish and seafood dominate the local cuisine. Santander notably houses the headquarters of multinational bank Banco Santander, which was founded here.

+ While in Santander, enjoy the beautiful beaches of Playa de la Magdalena and El Sardinero, a historic city center, and an epic planetarium, all while breathing in glorious coastal air. (There are many Gothic cathedrals that will impress and inspire.)

+ Santander also has a great tradition of cultural activity, with events that play a big role in the cultural and social life of the city. The Menéndez Pelayo International University ("UIMP" in Spanish) is a major international summer university that organizes large festivals of music and dance. The Festival Internacional de Santander (FIS), Festival Internacional de Música de Órgano (FiMÓC), Encuentro de Música y Academia, and the Paloma O'Shea International Piano Competition are popular cultural events.



In the city of Amiens, northern France

 "Reality provides us with facts so romantic that imagination itself could add nothing to them."

-- Jules Verne, French novelist, poet, and playwright
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(in northern France) The city of Amiens, capital of the Somme department in the Hauts-de-France region, is found in the Somme River valley, 120 km (~75 mi.) north of Paris and 100 km (~62 mi.) southwest of Lille.

+ Known as Samarobriva in pre-Roman times and capital of the Ambiani, Amiens became a Roman city, Christianized in the 4th century by St. Firmin, its first bishop. Its territory became the medieval countship of Amiénois, and its citizens profited from rivalry between bishop and count to gain a charter early in the 12th century. The 1802 Peace of Amiens marked a short pause in the Napoleonic Wars. In 1914, after a brief incursion into the city, the Germans dug in 18 miles (~29 km) east; their final drive in 1918 was stopped eight miles (~13 km) from the city. In World War II, Amiens was occupied by the Germans. After being damaged in both wars, the city center was rebuilt.

+ The old part of Amiens, including the reconstructed 17th-century City Hall, the 15th-century church of Saint-Germain, and the ancient theater with the Louis XVI facade, is latticed with seven branches of the river. The Cathedral was begun in 1220 and was finished about 50 years later. Its galleried and rose-windowed facade, pierced by three portals and topped by twin towers, is splendid. It has an awesome interior with a soaring nave and bold supporting columns, employing the logic of Romanesque while imposing the open and dramatic qualities of Gothic. One of France's mightiest Gothic cathedrals it is reason enough to visit Amiens, the former capital of Picardy. The city center, rebuilt after WWII, is complemented by lovely green spaces along the Somme River. Jules Verne lived the last 34 years of his life here; his former home is now a museum. Some 30,000 students from the Université de Picardie Jules Verne give the town a youthful energy. Dominated by the colossal 13th-century cathedral and situated near the Battle of the Somme memorials, Amiens pairs historic monuments with the youthful energy of a university town. Les Hortillonnages d'Amiens (floating market gardens), Jules Verne House, and the bars and restaurants of Quartier St-Leu add to its appeal.

+ A total of 60 monuments are listed in the inventory of monuments historiques, over 1600 places and monuments listed in the general inventory of cultural heritage, and 187 objects listed in the inventory of monuments historiques. During December, the city hosts the largest Christmas market in northern France. It is known for a few local foods, including "macarons d'Amiens" (almond paste biscuits),"tuiles amienoises," (chocolate and orange curved biscuits), "pâté de canard d'Amiens (duck pâté in pastry), "la ficelle Picarde" (an oven-baked cheese-topped crêpe), and "flamiche aux poireaux" (a puff pastry tart made with leeks and cream).



In the Baltic country of Lithuania

  🇱🇹 LITHUANIA — WHERE HISTORY WHISPERS THROUGH THE FORESTS There are countries you visit to see the sights. And then there are countri...