Tuesday 5 April 2022

In the English Garden, Europe's biggest city parks, city of Munich, Germany

 “When the world wearies and society fails to satisfy, there is always the garden.” -– Minnie Aumônier

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(in Bavaria) The Englischer Garten (English Garden) is a large public park in Munich that stretches from the city center to the northeastern city limits. It was created in 1789 by Sir Benjamin Thompson, later Count Rumford (Reichsgraf von Rumford), for Prince Charles Theodore (Karl Theodor), Elector of Bavaria. With an area of 370 ha (910 acres), Munich's English Garten is considered one of the world's largest urban public parks. The name refers to its English garden form of informal landscape, a style popular in England from the mid-18th century to the early 19th century (and particularly associated with Lancelot Brown, more commonly known as Capability Brown). An American-born scientist working as an adviser to the Bavarian government, Sir Benjamin Thompson was primarily a physicist, but also worked as a local government administrator. (He spent 11 years in Munich organizing the Bavarian army.)

+ The English Garden is among Europe's biggest city parks, rivalling London's Hyde Park for size. This green -- or snow white, depending on seasonal atmospherics -- "oasis" is a great place to explore while taking a break from sightseeing in Munich. Stretching north from Prinzregentenstrasse (Prince Regent Street), the park's pathways meander in and around dark stands of mature oak and maple trees, before emerging into sunlit meadows of lush grass (or snow). Locals are quite mindful of the park's popularity -- with cyclists, walkers, and joggers -- coexisting amicably, observing German-style "rules-of-the-road." Street musicians dodge balls kicked by children, and students sprawl on the grass (weather permitting) to compare notes about their skipped lectures. Eventually, you should make your own way to the Kleinhesseloher See, a lovely lake at the center of the park. (After taking a few of your own notes about the lake's three little islands, you might consider quaffing a foamy "bier" at the Seehaus beer garden.)

+ Several historic follies lend the park a bit of playful charm. The Chinesischer Turm, (Chinese Tower), now at the heart of Munich's oldest of many beer gardens, was built in the 18th century during a pan-European craze for all things oriental. Further south, at the top of a gentle hill, stands the Monopteros, a small Greek temple whose ledges are often knee-to-knee with dangling legs belonging to people admiring the view of the Munich skyline. Another hint of Asia awaits further south at the Japanisches Teehaus (Japanese Tea House), built for the 1972 Olympics next to an idyllic duck pond.

+  Yet another culture that found its way into the English Garden is the aforementioned Monopteros, a Greek style temple that offers the marvelous views of Munich’s cityscape. This small, round, Greek temple was designed by Leo von Klenze, and completed in 1836. (Its ten Ionic columns support a shallow copper covered dome).



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