Mostar, in Bosnia and Herzegovina -- At dusk, the lights of numerous millhouse restaurants twinkle across gushing streamlets. Narrow Kujundžiluk ('gold alley') bustles joyously with trinket sellers. And in between, the Balkans' most celebrated bridge forms a majestic stone arc between reincarnated medieval towers. It's an enchanting scene. You should remain into the evening to see it without the summer hordes of day trippers. Indeed, stay longer to enjoy memorable attractions in the surrounding area, while as pondering the city's darker side – beyond the cobblestoned lanes of the attractively restored Ottoman quarter are still-obvious scars of the 1990s conflict, especially around Spanski Trg.
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