In the city of Novi Sad, northern Serbia

 "Cultivators of the earth are the most valuable citizens. They are the most vigorous, the most independent, the most virtuous and they are tied to their country and wedded to its liberty and interests by the most lasting bands."

-- Thomas Jefferson
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(in Serbia's most fertile agricultural region) Novi Sad, a vibrant hub of art and culture on the Danube, is the second biggest city in Serbia and the capital of Vojvodina province. Located on the border of the Bačka and Srem regions in the southern part of the Pannonian Plain, Novi Sad flanks the Danube River and faces the northern slopes of Fruška Gora, a mountain in Syrmia that is administratively part of Serbia, with a part of its western side extending into eastern Croatia. The area under Serbian administration forms the country's oldest national park, which is sometimes also referred to as the Jewel of Serbia, due to its pristine landscape, protection efforts (and many Serbian Orthodox monasteries). 

+ Now Serbia's second largest city, before the 18th century Novi Sad was a but a small fishing village called Petrovaradinski šanac (“Petrovaradin Ditch”). In the south bend of the Danube is the Petrovaradin Fortress, which was rebuilt by the Austrians into the present structure after 1699 as part of the military frontier with the Ottoman Empire. During the period of Turkish rule of Serbia south of the Danube, Novi Sad became a center of Serbian culture in Austrian lands (soon after the Serbian literary society Matica Srpska was founded here in 1826). The Bačka canal system connects with the Danube at Novi Sad -- the economic and cultural focus for northern Vojvodina. (The city’s cultural centers include a university, an art academy, a National Theater, and some museums.)

The city center is dominated by a cathedral and many cafes, proof of the strength of the coffee-drinking culture here. Yet, there is one street more popular than the rest, called Laze Telečkog, where the best bars and pubs are found (though you need to brace yourself for serious drinking here, since each of them serves the famous homemade liqueur called "rakija.)" The looming Petrovaradin Fortress (shown here) seems to keep a stern eye on the proceedings, loosening its scrutiny just a bit each July during the EXIT Festival. (You can walk to all of Novi Sad's attractions from the busy pedestrian thoroughfare, Zmaj Jovina, which stretches from the main square [Trg Slobode] to Dunavska.) If you haven't yet attended this festival, it is about time you do! After the festival, be sure to linger a few days longer. I mean, it is astonishing how quickly the fortress is brought back to its normal condition. (One day you have thousands of hard-partying people dancing until sunset, or later, and the very next day you can see families strolling down the same paths on what appear to be casual afternoon strolls). In addition to offering splendid views of Novi Sad, this fortress' restaurants are also known for their exquisite food.