Monday, 9 December 2024

In the seaport city of Trieste, located in northeastern Italy

 A once-forgotten port of Italy is alive with a diverse cultural and literary legacy'

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(at the easternmost region of Italy) Trieste is a city and seaport located in northeastern Italy,  lies at the head of the Adriatic Sea on the Gulf of Trieste. It was under Roman control from the 2nd century BCE until the collapse of the empire. It placed itself in 1382 under Habsburg protection and later became the prosperous main port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After World War I Trieste was ceded to Italy. Occupied by Germany in World War II and seized by Yugoslavia in 1945, it became the center of the Free Territory of Trieste in 1947. Returned to Italy in 1954, it became the regional capital in 1963.

+ Trieste is an Italian city whose food, architecture, and history have Eastern soul. Add coastal castles to sun-soaked beach resorts, and you have one of Europe’s most cultured seaside getaways. Trieste’s location at the top of the Adriatic has always defined it. It was invented as a port town and turbo-charged its fortunes after Austrian Emperor Charles VI declared its port “free” in 1719.
+ Take a stroll around town and within 30 minutes you will pass the Serbian Orthodox San Spiridone church, the Catholic church of Sant’Antonio Taumaturgo, the Greek Orthodox San Nicolò and one of the largest synagogues in Europe. Even the Triestine dialect incorporates traces of German, Italian, Slovene, Greek and Croatian.

+ A 1st-century Roman theater is in the city center; it now hosts summer concerts. Up above, the San Giusto Cathedral and adjoining Hapsburg castle are built on top of Roman ruins and are filled with Byzantine mosaics and Baroque frescoes. A tight medieval core tumbles down the surrounding hillside through what was the Jewish Ghetto to the Borgo Teresiano, the “new” quarter that bears the name of Hapsburg empress Maria Teresa. She ordered its construction on salt flats around 1740 and at a stroke transformed Trieste into a modern metropolis.

+ As European empires rose and fell, Trieste found itself on the frontline of history, most notably in two World Wars, which left the city its art deco lighthouse, the Faro della Vittoria, the monumental Fascist university on the Scoglietto hill, and the Nazi concentration camp at the old rice mill, Risiera di San Sabba, which now houses a haunting museum. In the wake of those horrifying years, Antonio Santin, Bishop of Trieste and Koper (in Slovenia), built the extraordinary Brutalist Temple of Monte Grisa as a reminder of the essential peace and unity among people.

+ These days in Trieste, it feels like everything old is new again. The city’s thriving coffee culture (Trieste is Italy’s biggest consumer) and heritage Austrian brew pubs segue neatly with the contemporary craze for craft beer and cult coffee. Likewise, Piolo e Max have re-invented the regional tradition of after-dinner digestivo, by infusing local grappas and bitters with fragrant botanicals.



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